Great Uncle George canyon fell out of favour for a bit.
A change of land ownership saw the start of the Ingar fire trail locked up but also restricted access for canyoners to the quickest way in.
The alternate route in was a scrub bash that made an average quality canyon barely worth the effort.
But then top bloke and local legend, Blue Philips stepped up to the plate, contacted the owner and, convinced the him to trial allowing canyoners access across his land.
The conditions are explained by Blue
“ Permission this time from the owner (now sometime resident), Warren, stipulation is: keep as far left as you can, away from the house/environs, once you walk around the locked gate/fence, head down near the two abandoned caravans to the lower gate, close it behind you, locate first abseil (slings on tree), and off you go. We’re effectively ‘on trial’, so as long as no-one’s a flog and spoils our access privileges, GUG is back on, via the easiest and simplest ingress route. If you see someone else acting suspiciously, call them out, the owner has endured a lot of negative stuff over the years; bushrock theft, building material theft, motorcycle hoons hooning, fires, drugs, you name it. Us canyoners need to be as pure as the driven snow:-)”
Anyhoo we thought why not take advantage of Blues hard work.
Retracing the entry I’d used years ago with Julie and the Cooks, it took no time to get to the start.
And before long we were at the exit point that cuts back up to the Areoplane Hills picnic area.
We stop for lunch then scramble up onto the ridge. From there it’s an easy stroll up the ridge, made easier from a hazard reduction burn earlier in the year that has cleared out the scrub
GUG might not be the most exiting canyon but finding a patch of wilderness close to suburbia has a vibe all of its own.
When Surveyor General Mitchell was making his map of NSW he asked his surveyors to, where possible, use the traditional place names.
(When he wasn’t naming stuff after Macquarie, that is)
His map had the northern branch of this creek system marked as Bungleboori Creek. Clew’s 1930’s Military Survey had the branchs labled “Bungleboori 9 mile” and “Bungleboori 12 mile”. They later became known as Bungleboori North and Bungleboori South.
This suggests it was a mistake when the Geograffic Naming Board renamed the Northern Branch to the rather less evocative “Dingo” Creek.
While tame camp dogs were called Dinggu by the Dharug people of the upper mountains, and thats where we get the term Dingo, wild dogs would have been more commonly called Warragal by the Dharug and Wiradjuri.
The Gundungurra may have used that term too. So why Dingo Creek?
Anyhoo that is nether here nor there as we are headed for the southern branch, now officially “The” Bungleboori creek.
This was a very last mintue decision. After a couple of hectic weeks we opted for (what we thought woud be) a slightly less committing trip.
I hadn’t done Arthurs before, nor Hailstorm Retreat for that matter, and Kylie hadn’t done many canyons in this section of the Bungleboori at all.
We had a quick puruse the the maps the night before and decided that was the plan.
the bright eyed anticipation of adventure
The road out to Waratah ridge is rough as guts at the moment. It’s the roughest I’ve seen it since the 2002 fires. If you are heading out that way a car with high clearance is recommended.
the wild flowers though…
We head up the usual track but soon spear off on a side trail.
I was expecting an old 4WD trail out to views and this matched my expectation though the trail looked more well used than I thought it would be.
And there I was blindly following the trail down into a gully when Kylie called, Hey this isn’t right. We should still be on a ridge.
She has an uncanny ability to map out a route and picture it in her head.
We stop to look at the map. This was our first time using lidar overlays, courtesy of Rob’s Maps, they are an awesome tool. Thanks Rob H for creating such a wonderful resource.
Yep! we shoud be on the ridge and, if anything, dropping off the other side. We debate heading back up the trail or dive off and traverse across.
If we traverse the topoline aroud the top of that gully it’s only 150m across and half the elevation. Argue I.
Gadget reluctantly agrees, loath to dive into the scrub this early on what is sure to be a scrub bash.
But I’m the the scrub master, usually. Little did I know.
Back on course we follow the ridge until near the end then opted to descend a creek line. I’d read the gully wasn’t too bad….
Let’s just say we should have got out of the creek line early and looked for a nose. The scrub along the creek was horrendous. Anyone who has been on one of my infamous scrubbashes knows that’s a big call.
It was a relief when we popped out of the bushes onto a very pretty section of Paddys…. I mean the Bungleboori.
then, steadfastly avoiding anything that slightly resembled a creek line, we pop up the nose on the other side and with a couple of short scrambles break the first major cliff line suprisingly easily. We traverse down to cross a creek line then, again easily up the nose to break through the upper cliff even easier. Its rare I find the up 10x easier than the down whch just goes to show how bad the scrub in the creek was.
We are now at the base of the Mini Arthurs.
We have a decision. Gadget had mapped out a route that skirted around the outcrops and dropped into the creek closer to where Arthurs was meant to drop into a canyon however that meant missing weaving through the maze of the Arthurs themselves and potentially missing the upper section.
We weave up through the Arthurs and into another scrubby creek.
This one isn’t as scrubby as the previous (yet) and we soon reach a scramble into a very tight slot. Its jammed full of sticks but I clear them out as I work my way in. 1 very tight squeeze and it opens back up. Just downstream it drops into another short squeeze to what looks to be an abseil but this is so jammed full of debris we were forced to retreat up and around the next side gully.
And here’s where the scrub decided to step up a notch or ten.
On a scale of 1 to 10 how bad was it?
to use a 30 year old meme
Holy cutty spikie grabby shit fight batman.
At times I couldn’t even tell if we were in the creek or on the bank or what. Even heading up the slope onto what should have been a spur between two creek lines offered no relief.
Finally we came to a spot where the creek bagan to drop through boulders. and a slot of sorts openned before us.
It’s not much to look at so far.
but just downstream we are surprised
The creek twists down through a pretty waterfall into a stunning chamber.
With care the pools could be avoided but by this stage Kylie had no cares left to give and opted to frolick in all of them with reckless abandon.
And just like that it opens up.
Kylie didn’t agree with me but I did say if that canyon section was in the middle of Claustral it would be the nicest 20metres of Claustral. Maybe the 5hrs of dense scrub bashing had me delusional but certainly not delutional enough to ever want to come back. Arthurs is defiately a oncer.
OK, “best bit of Claustral” is probaby a stretch. Maybe Grand. If it was in the middle of Grand it would be the best 20 meters of Grand.
But we still had more dense scrub to bash through down to the junction with the ‘Boori. then a further engery zapping boulder hop down to where we would camp for the night.
We got the tarp set up just as the storm hit. And hit it did.
As my mate Russ would say it pissed it down.
Interestingly the creek didn’t rise that much with the storm but come morning we watched it rise about 50mm in 20min while we ate breakfast. The lag effects of water running down tributaries and soaking through the ground was cool to see.
We were pretty beat up from the previous day (and hadn’t done any big trips recently so a little off our canyoning game fitness) The temperture had also dropped over night, I think we had forgotten how cold the ground stayed at this time of year and only bringing our summer kit was optimistic. So we opted to have a lazy start then exit out rather than forging through another day and camping again.
From our camp down to our exit the Bungleboori was much more forgiving. Boulder scrambles were mostly avoided with easy walking on the banks and the couple of deep wades actually felt good as the water took the load of our packs.
Smiling again. for now
and then it was up.
Steeply up.
Scrubby up.
And into Hailstorm retreat.
Doesn’t look like much to start but its a pleasant slot that carves all the way to the top of the upper cliff line.
And from there its a relatively easy stroll over the tops to the Waratah ridge track and the monotonous trudge back along the fire trail.
A few days in Tokyo with it’s bright lights and highrise buildings and were craving a bit of natural greenery.
Our timing wasn’t great, it was the tag end of Typhoon season so wet, windy and humid. But we weren’t going to let that stop us. We hired a little car and hit the road for the Izu Peninsula.
Eventually we left the major cities behind and wound our way up into the mountains. The lush green was such a contrast to the neon blues and reds and drab concrete.
The Izu peninsular is about 100km south west of Tokyo and the towns we began passing through, and you were never too far out of a town, were goregous but we were struck with the amount of seemingly abandoned buildings dotted around. It seemed like there was a failed attempt in the 70s to decentralise or something…
Anyhoo our first stop was Mount Omuro an extent volcano covered in lush green
Wonderful Views to Mountain Fugi
From there we headed to Amagiso Odaru Onsen with the time of year and poor weather we mostly had this to ourselves and Wow. It is amazing
Naturally feed hot springs at the base of a stunning waterfall
Ok so we kinda knew what to expect but pulling up to a non descript car park and following a path down a gully that alomst felt like we were walking into someones back yard. We were greeted at the gate buy a man who may or may not have ever left the gully. ¥1000 (or a bit under $9AUD) pp later and we in some sort of paradise.
The top onsens were about 42° and got progressively cooler as you wandered down stream along the river.
We spent a good few hours here just soaking it in before heading back to the car and just up the road a bit is the Seven Waterfalls of Kawazu
From here we head to the coast and the fanastic Hiromi Ocean View Spa Hotel.
Sunrise views from the room
This place was so luxurious. The view from the room would be worth it on it’s own but down stairs the onsens as next level.
Word to travellers, it’s tradition in Japan for people using the segragated Onsens to do so nude. Swim wear is considered rude unless stated otherwise. If that is off putting for you this hotel has the option to rent a private Onsen where you can choose to cover up or not. We tried both options.
We also took advantage of the serenity room that was full of automatic massage chairs.
After the heat of Waa Gorge and Mount Kaputar we decide our best plan would be to get up super early and get the bulk of the Grand High top walk done before the heat of the day.
But first we have to get there. There was another feature just out of Coonabarabran we wanted to check out.
We pull into Hickey Falls, never seen them this dry before. Says a local lady we bump into.
as dry as Uncle Geoff’s sense of humour
The side trip to Hickey Falls meant we’d enter the Warrumbungles from the eastern side and the drive in is spectacular.
View after view.
We pull into the visitor centre to book into our camp we are thinking they are going to say we are nuts but when we mentioned we we planning the Grand Hightop Walk in the morning they just smiled and said, Oh lovely. You’d be best to start early in this heat.
Oh yeah we are going to start about 5 and try and get up to the breadknife for sunrise.
Oh that would be awesome…
Ok so we aren’t nuts. Or not as nut as when thought.
We pull into camp. We had picked our site based around the morning view
All set for the view
It took about an hour, though for the shade to disappear and we begged a change of site to find afternoon shade.
The afternoon is spent having a short section of song echo over and over and over and over.
It was a bit weird, at first I thought the grounds keep really likes his teeny bop but I go for a walk and there’s a K-pop or TikTok or whatever the kiddies call themselves these day <Old man shakes fist at Cloud> perfecting their dance moves to the song.
We are pretty much the only ones in the entire camp ground so good on them say I.
Still, I do my best to get into their background and ape their moves. It’s how I roll.
Anyhoo
We were up at sparrows fart and hit the trail at about 4.45am
It’s a lovely morning for a walk.
and the first of the pillars pops into view just as the sun lightens the sky and Kylie some how turns into Dicky Knee
Are you thinking what I am thinking?
yes, I just made a Hey Hey its Saturday reference…
I apologise.
and the views keep coming
It’s actually really shit at cutting bread
Sunrise and the Breadknife
We spend a bit of time here and a bit further up just watching the changing light and taking a gazillion photos
the light kept getting better
We are not sure how or why Kyle dressed as a school girl
We scramble up to the tops, the last 100m or so of trail is under construction so it’s still a bit of a scramble.
Topping out the wind is intense.
We take the short cut back down past Balors hut and get back to camp just after 9.
Another hot day poking around town and that brings a close to our epic first road trip in the Alucab
Over the years I’ve had a quiet giggle at the poor tourists hopelessly out of their way asking “is this the way to the campground at, um, New Ness.” their GPS’s having them very confused.
Today I gained a deeper understanding for those poor souls.
It’s pronounced “War” Gorge, said the amused cowcockie we waved down to ask where the hell are we. Turn left here and you’ll see the signs. he says but where did you come from?
I get ahead of myself. That came later.
We were doing a less than direct route from Cranky Rock to Waa Gorge as we wanted to use a free camp ground at Glacial Rocks to give us access to both Waa Gorge and Sawn Rocks without too much back tracking.
The road in to the Gorge from this end was touted as 4wd and fair weather only so we wanted to swing by the camp to see if it was suitable and make sure the road between was doable.
The camp looked great and we continued on. GSP signal was lost.
We get a couple of bars of signal just down the road and it screams to turn right.
Veering onto Terrergee road the signs matched what we were expect, other than not mentioning the Gorge, “Road Suitable in dry weather only.”
But the road was a lot better than expected.
Must have been recently graded, said we, if this is the rough road people whine about on trip advisor…. We should have shut up.
The road takes us across the top of some beautiful county and then down steeply into the valleys. It did get a bit slippy on the descents and you could see why it would be problematic in the wet.
So far so good.
Take the second left onto “Berrigal road” Says the nice lady in the GPS.
But the second road is signposted “Haven Home road” or sumfink and it’s the only road sign we’ve seen all day and the road looks like a goat track.
We pass it.
Go back says the GPS lady.
We go back have another look. Doesn’t look right. We try the other option.
Go back says the GPS lady.
I get out my phone and check the GPS topo app. I could see where the roads go but Waa Gorge isn’t marked and I’m not 100% sure where it is.
We take the goat track. It gets rougher and rougher.
There’s some dry creek crossing we need to engage 4wd for.
This is why we bought the ute. Says I
but it gets wilder.
Eventually GPS lady says, Turn left 100m ahead.
The left was even more over grown. I check the app again.
It opens out just through there but I’m 100% sure it’s private property.
Straight will skirt around the property boundary but add 18min to the drive.
Oh well we skirt around.
We are now in 4wd more than not.
It was a fun drive.
the road links us back onto Terrergee road, about a 5min drive further on from where the GPs insisted we turn off it earlier and still no signs for Waa Gorge.
We flag down a landcruiser coming the other way, the first car we’d see all day.
Um is this the way to “Wah” Gorge, say I sheepishly.
With a wry grin the afore mentioned conversation takes place.
The GPS took us down that road back there.
That bloody goat track!, it would have tried to take you across old mates property too.
I sense this isn’t his first of such encounters.
Anyhoo we are on the right track now. If the final little bit of bumpy road into the car park is what Tripadvisor folk are complaining about they don’t know what they are missing.
It’s 38°c as we pull into the car park.
By the way, it’s pronounced “War” gorge. 🙂
Sunscrees, hats, water, electrolytes, deep breath
Ok let’s head up. drink lots and if it gets too much say early and we’ll head back.
having suffered heat stroke and dehydration before I’m extra cautious in hot weather so we have a lot of water between us.
It’s a short walk up to the Mill-bullah water holes.
There is water in them but it has been in there a long time with no flush through to clean it out.
The top waterhole looks a little nicer but still stagnant.
The constructed tourist trail ends here but a well used ad hoc trail leads up through the cliff line.
The track skirts above what looks like would be a fun little canyonette full of jumps and slides, in the right water flow
Unfortunately we are here in the middle of one of the driest summers we’ve had since 2019.
Above the canyonette the gorge is shaded but the heat still oppressive
we find a clear pool to splash some water over us in an effort to cool off
We continue up, disturbing this lace monitor with his mouth full of a water dragon sandwich
Finally we get to the junction. Left takes us to the big wall .
A dry cascade greets us.
I head up, Kylie waits in the shade. The heat blasting off the stone is next level
The top of the gorge is impressive
We had a permit to fly the drone for 30min here so I get it out and try my hand at flying again
We slip back down to the junction, have a bite to eat and a big drink in the shade then explore up the other branch
another dry waterfall into a stagnant plunge pool greets us. It looks like there are some interesting levels above too. Definitely worth some exploration when things are cooler and wetter
We make our way back down to the car. And head back to the camp
the Ancient Glacial Rocks site on Rocky creek is interesting. Superficially it looks like another granite lined gorge. A closer look and the rocks are different. You can see how they have been churned up, smashed together and dumped out.
Once again the river is running through agricultural land and wild goat are everywhere but once again it’s too hot to be picky so we cool off in the rapids and then settle in for the night.
The camp site is basic but has bins and toilets. It’s worth checking out the toilet signs for a giggle.
There a 2 other campers set up. Flat spots are at a premium but we manage to jag a flat spot in shade
Winning
We eat diner with the goats. Tomorrow we head to Sawn Rocks.
Returning from The Sphinx as the heat began to ramp up a visit to the underground creek sounded ideal.
If nothing else the name was cool.
A short drive from our camp took us up into the surrounding hills. The car park is well signposted and gives access to both the Underground creek trail and Dr Roberts Waterhole.
The walk out to the underground section the creek is just over a 1km and fairly flat.
So what the hell is it?
This section of creek drops down through boulders into a a short section of old lava tube
If you find the top secret… I mean really obvious entry it’s such a cool feature
of course we spend no time scrambling down
It’s a short section but well worth exploring a bit.
Just upstream we scrambled up past this feature. Belatedly we found an easy trail that bypasses around the little cliff line up to a sunny platform that’s worth a look
iddy biddy baby canyon
iddy biddy baby water dragon
big dyke
On the way back we made the detour to Dr Roberts waterhole. It’s a nice spot for a dip.
We’d spend another night in Girraween before hitting the road and head towards Cranky Rock
From Booboo Booboo we do a bit of a down and around, crossing the boarder into Qld and into Girraween.
Bald Rock and Girraween are not that far apart as the crow flys, but we aren’t crows and the road needs to circle around the mountainous country in between.
We roll into an almost empty camp ground, the Christmas/New years crowd have dispersed. Just about everyone else we see here we saw at Boonboo Boonoo. Haha
We have a couple of nights here and planned to smash out as much as possible. but the heat was oppressive so we cut our list of things to do from “Everything all at once” to our “must sees” and worked out a bit of a plan for best time of day to see the things. In between we do something rare for us. We chill out and enjoy the camp ground.
and with views like these out the back of the camper why wouldn’t you
The neighbours were amusing. Knobbie the dragon was preaching the virtues of sun baking. Maggie Pie seemed very engrossed in the topic.
We thought we’d start our stay with a quick walk up to the Granite arch.
An nice easy walk lead us past serval granite outcrops up to this beauty.
On our way to Bald Rock we had stopped at “Thunderbolt’s hideout.” and joked at the time that if we didn’t stop on the way in we wouldn’t stop on the way back as we’d be sick of looking at Granite tors and boulders .
Narrator: Neither Craig nor Kylie got sick of looking at granite tors or boulders.
Just adjusting the placement for a better composition
A big storm role din with lots of thunder and lightning so we dashed back to camp.
Knobby Dragon. I think. Could be a Jacky Dragon. I aint know. I’m not a dragon tamer.
The storm passed over without rain and the sky cleared so we thought a late afternoon walk up the Pyramid would be just the ticket.
It’s about 2km from the campground to the summit, so not a big walk.
But it’s steep.
While not the steepest signposted tourist track we’ve been up (I’d probably give that to the Red Track at Bungonia) added to the steepness is the exposure.
Grippy shoes and dry weather is a must for this one. Once the rock is wet you’d have more grip on an ice skating rink.
The first part is along a clear easy path. This leads to some stairs. They lead to a big granite slab. White dots lead the easiest path up. All good so far
Then you scramble up this rocky chute, referred to as the pyramid passage.
Then comes the traverse.
You make your way out, angling up. To the right the granite slab towers above. To your left a steep slope dropping off to nothing but air.
It’s terrifying but worth it. Say a couple coming back down.
(Belatedly, on the way down, we find there is a less terrifying option of veering right and around the back side of the boulders above)
Past traverse its another little scramble before you round a corner to views of the infamous balancing rocks, defying gravity (for the meantime) right on the edge of the dome.
Breath taking in the soft afternoon light of sunset
The view across to the second “Pyramid” and equally impressive granite dome.
If you close both eyes and try really hard to imagine a pyramid it looks just like a pyramid.
The aboriginal name for these peaks seems to have been Terrawambella. Early pastoralists mapped them as “the domes” at some point they became known as the Pyramids.
With the sun sitting low in the west the light was magical and we had the views all to ourselves.
Well, us and Mr Cunningham.
I only recently learnt that Cunningham skinks have the ability to change their colour a bit, sort of like a chameleon, to help blend into the background.
Once back down off the dome we veer off track to check out other balancing rocks and views
Gadget and The Great Pyramid of Girraween
It’s been a good day. We have punched out a couple of short but steep walks. Basketswamp Falls, the Granite Arch and the Pyramid.
We get back to camp as another storm rolls through. The temperature was due to ramp up again tomorrow so we plan an early morning trek out to the Sphinx
But not before a bit of late night herping
it was a frogathon but I forgot to charge my head torch so had to call it before the snakes came looking for diner.
It’s pronounced “Bunoo Boonoo” Thou tbh I had to ask Kylie how Bunoo was pronounced differenty to Boonoo.
One is “bun” and one is “boon”. She explains patiently to her favourite idiot.
Anyhoo
After a pleasant morning at Bald Rock the day has heated up and so we drive past the campsite and head to the main falls.
The road runs along the creek as it tumbles through a little granite gorge. It looks like it would have plenty of nooks and crannies to explore.
From the car park tourist trails lead to rock pools above the falls or down to a viewing platform over the main drop.
We head down to the lookout. It’s an easy 5min walk.
A 260m cascading waterfall tumbling into the steep sided gorge below.
Beyond the fenced path glimpses of old trails hint at adventure. If it wasn’t so hot or dry we may have been tempted.
Instead we make our way up to the rock pools intent on a dip.
The main pools at the end of the trail are beautiful, but why stop at there when there’s so much to explore.
We make our way upstream
A bit of rock hoping leads us past a series of cascades and semi hidden water holes
You can see just how low the water is by the waterline on the rocks. But still enough for a cool dip on a hot day.
And we choose a plunge pool below a little waterfall tucked into an alcove and play in the current of the falls wondering just how nasty the hydraulic would get in higher flows
From here its a short drive back to the camp ground where we set up for the night then explore the camp ground
The camp is upstream of the gorge and gives access to the river
We spend the twilight chilling out on the bench by the platypus pool. Unfortunately we didn’t catch a glimpse of any this time around.
An evening storm is our first real test in the Alucab in heavy rain. Lessons learnt: the make shift rain gutter works well but even with it on leaving the door open wasn’t a great idea…
Next morning we get up early and head to BasketSwamp Falls for sunrise.
Kylie below the lower falls
Even after last night storm the water level is low but at least there is some flow over the falls.
Kylie had gifted me a Potensic Atom 2 drone for Christmas and had been forward thinking enough to also apply for permits to fly it in various national parks we’d be visiting .
We were denied permission as the first couple because it was peak tourist time over the New Years long weekend but even then they encouraged us to apply again.
Most of our requests were granted though. There were a few conditions on the permits but they were easy enough to comply with
So if you are taking a drone it’s worth planning ahead and doing the right thing. There were also a few times where we had permission but opted not to put it up due to not wanting to disturb other visitors.
Can’t deny the awesome perspective you get with them though.
This was one of my first flights.
From here we’d be heading west into Queensland… sounds weird but the border does a little curve here. Bald Rock in NSW is North East of Girraween in Qld.
Finishing up our coastal sojourn we head west. Our plan was to come back down the western line.
As usual we had planned to pack a fair bit in to a short time.
The Western line probably isn’t in the forefront of most peoples minds as a summer trip. We are not most people
Are we crazy? asks one of us
Yeah. says the other as if it was the most obvious answer in the history of obvious answers.
The fact was summer was when we both had time off so…
Our first destination was Bald Rock.
I’d never heard of it but Kylie said it was something she really wanted to see.
It’s right on the Qld border and part of the New England Granite belt, which was formed about 250million years ago. It’s called the New England granite belt because, you know, nothing resembles Old England more than goannas running across massive granite domes…
Anyhoo
We pull into the car park and cook up a breakfast then make our way up to the trailhead.
There are several walk options, from super short to all day. We opt for the summit walk.
A reasonably short walk leads us to the base of the massive granite dome. This point is wheel chair accessible and if its as far as you get it still bloody impressive.
A mountain of granite towers above.
White reflectors stuck on the rock were the only indicators of a path up.
Of course we follow them. Mostly
It was steep.
Jokes
It’s a little steep but not *that* steep
It’s a short, punchy walk up to the summit and it was spectacular.
Rising 260m above the surrounding terrain, Bald Rock is the largest granite monolith in Australia and the colours are amazing, even on an overcast morning.
as it levels out we pass a few boulders and suddenly this view bursts into view
There is something humbling about big terrain. Human trivialities seem… Trivial
These guys were everywhere and they were curious but they were friendly enough. The bee not the warn out merrells.
We share the summit with several other groups. Families, grey nomads and, us. (There is a song in there somewhere)
We return to the car and back track a little to our camp site in Boonoo Boonoo.
