While we got our mountain, waterfall and Onsen fix along the way the real reson we came to the Peninsula was the coast line.
From Kylie’s research we knew the coast line was going to be stunning but, despite terrible weather, it blew us away.
Between the rain and hunidity I struggled with the camera. At times I’d clean the lenz and before I could point it at the next subjst it was already fogged out. On a sunny day this coastline woudl be off chops.
We had hoped to do the boat trip into the Tensodo Cave at Dogashima but wind and rain meant the boats wouldn’t be running today. We were still able to walk up to have a look at the famous sky light from above.
Looking down into the cave. The boat sails in underneath this and at the right time of day the sunlight illuminate the cave belowThe other end of the cave. It goes quite away in before openning through the cliff to the ocean where the boat goes in
Braving the rain we make our way aroiund to the Futo Coast with it’s stunning sea stacks.
Just North of here is Cape Koganezaki and the infamous Horse Rock
After an awesome day exploring coast lines we make our wayback to Tokyo.
A few days in Tokyo with it’s bright lights and highrise buildings and were craving a bit of natural greenery.
Our timing wasn’t great, it was the tag end of Typhoon season so wet, windy and humid. But we weren’t going to let that stop us. We hired a little car and hit the road for the Izu Peninsula.
Eventually we left the major cities behind and wound our way up into the mountains. The lush green was such a contrast to the neon blues and reds and drab concrete.
The Izu peninsular is about 100km south west of Tokyo and the towns we began passing through, and you were never too far out of a town, were goregous but we were struck with the amount of seemingly abandoned buildings dotted around. It seemed like there was a failed attempt in the 70s to decentralise or something…
Anyhoo our first stop was Mount Omuro an extent volcano covered in lush green
Wonderful Views to Mountain Fugi
From there we headed to Amagiso Odaru Onsen with the time of year and poor weather we mostly had this to ourselves and Wow. It is amazing
Naturally feed hot springs at the base of a stunning waterfall
Ok so we kinda knew what to expect but pulling up to a non descript car park and following a path down a gully that alomst felt like we were walking into someones back yard. We were greeted at the gate buy a man who may or may not have ever left the gully. ¥1000 (or a bit under $9AUD) pp later and we in some sort of paradise.
The top onsens were about 42° and got progressively cooler as you wandered down stream along the river.
We spent a good few hours here just soaking it in before heading back to the car and just up the road a bit is the Seven Waterfalls of Kawazu
From here we head to the coast and the fanastic Hiromi Ocean View Spa Hotel.
Sunrise views from the room
This place was so luxurious. The view from the room would be worth it on it’s own but down stairs the onsens as next level.
Word to travellers, it’s tradition in Japan for people using the segragated Onsens to do so nude. Swim wear is considered rude unless stated otherwise. If that is off putting for you this hotel has the option to rent a private Onsen where you can choose to cover up or not. We tried both options.
We also took advantage of the serenity room that was full of automatic massage chairs.
Hang on, where’s that. Exclaims I to myself like a mad man.
I’d been playing Richard Pattison’s ‘What canyon is that’ game and trying to pin point one of his Beyond the Guidebook canyons on the map. I’d dicyphered the clues pretty quickly and added a waypoint to my map. Then I got side tracked as often happens.
Flicking through canyon reports and looking at maps my gaze had drifted to a different canyon area altogether when I came across a refference to another canyon along th Bells Line that I hadn’t done.
There wasn’t much info to go off but we thought why the hell not go for a look. We weren’t expecting much, the satelite imagery wasn’t overly exciting so I figured it would a creek bash with abseils but it fit our need for a shorter day.
We parked up where we thought the exit woud be, hoofed back up the road a bit and then bashed our down through a bit of razor grass and native raspberry before finding a dry water course that got us through the worst of the scrub before we travsered a bit further upstream to where I’d marked an possible entry.
H found a break in the lower cliffs and we scrambled down with the aid of a hand line.
The pretty creek matched what we were expecting
Just downstream though it dropped into a proper little canyon.
The double drop looked to have a deep pool in the midshelf so we scrambled out and travesed to a tree, hoping to descend straight to the lower level and avoid getting too wet.
From here it’s a pleasant walk down to the gully we opted to exit out.
.
We could have continued down to a more popular walk and exit a couple of kilometres downstream but we opted to punch up to the cliffline and follow a narrow ledge up to a break where, with a short climb (one or 2 grade 8 moves) we gained the nose and it was an easy stroll back up to the road.
And we finished the day with a ride and picnic. Why not
When Russ said he was in town and keen for a catch up but we both had limitted time we thought a run through this little beauty would be just the ticket and Jason was hell keen too.
It had been nearly 2 years since we first went searching for it and our group was far from the only ones to be inspired by Richard Pattison’s youtube video. Since then it’s be come fairly popular and a track has begun forming through the previously thick scrub. Still we opted for a bit of a scrub bash.
It takes us next to no time to get to the first little abseil.
We slide down this and take what looks to be an obvisous path along a ledge to the left to avoid the next little drop.
Pro tip. Don’t take the obvious ledge to the left. It is muddy, slippery and it’s just causing damage. There’s a much better path to the right of the boulder in the centre of the creek. From above it looks like a drop but when you get to it you’ll see its an easy step down.
And just like that we are at the top of the drop into the impressive slot.
It’s a lot higher than I remember. Belatedly I am glad we opted to throw in 2 30m ropes “just in case.”
It’s a lot wetter than last time too, which was nice
Russ on rope the 30m ropes just reach aross the pool at the bottom.
A bit of careful foot work see us stay dry above the thighs.
A small down climb brings us to the next abseil with some interesting anchor set up… Last time this was prefect candidate for the fiddle stick. Now sling and rope are in place around the boulder. Make sure you double check these carefully.
The Pool of Aphrodite is a well published spot in the Gardens of Stone that doesn’t get lot of traffic due to it being a bit of a scrub bash to get to.
Yuri referred to it as the Heaven pool (Thanks Matt M for that info) but Keats officially named it Pool of Aphrodite with the geographical naming board.
When they published it in the Gardens of Stone Guides people would bash their way around from the more popular Pool of Diana, But it was a long, leg slashing slog.
A while ago I punched a more direct pass down through the cliffs oposite it but got foiled with a last little cliff I didn’t have rope for.
Anyhoo a few weeks ago Gadget and I had a rare spare afternoon and as she hadn’t been to the North Bungleboori Arch we thought why not go for a quick look at that and then pop over the ridge to see if we could make it down to Aphrodite.
The Arch is spectacular.
We scramble down to the bottom of the arch and phaff around with the camera for a bit before heading back up to drive a bit further down the road to see if we could work our way down to the Pool of Aphrodite.
We get down to the cliff edge with a fantastic view to the slot that hides both the pool and the waterfall that feeds it. But for the life of me I couldn’t find the break in the cliff had got me so close many years ago
Kylie pulls out the topo and studies it momentarily. I reckon theres a pass upstream on the other side that will get us there, says she.
We slip back up to the car and drive around the head of the gully.
Her pass was a winner and before long we are at the pool.
It’s barely shin deep, a little underwhelming as far as pools go. But it’s a pretty spot.
Looking up at the slot cutting through the towering cliffs above we agree it would make an amazing abseil. The satelite image suggested there might be a small slot above it.
Keats describes it as being fed by a 30m waterfall. It’s a lot higher than that.
We file it on our list of things to do when we have nothing to do.
Which brings us to today. We had a big overnighter planned but circumstances lead to it being canceled and suddenly we had nothing to do.
And on top of the things to do when we have nothing to do list… that abseil.
A last minute, late night invite was thrown out to see if anyone else would like to join us and to our delight both Ed and Hywaida were keen.
We were expecting it to be a short trip so it was close to 11am when we roll into our car park.
It’s a 600m bash down the ridge, skirting the swamp until a pinch in the cliffs force us into the thickests of scrubs.
Ed resorts to his tried and tested method. Turn, use his pack a a shield and throw himself backwards into the wall of vegetation.
I’ve missed scrub bashing with Ed.
In no time he had bulldozed us a path to the top of the falls.
Unfortunitely there’s no slot above them. Also more scrub and a slippery slope is preventing us from getting a good look at the drop.
We slip up the pagoda next to it to get a view over the impressive slot dropping into the pool somewhere below.
A loooooong somewhere below.
It’s a substancial cliff and the best anchor tree is a long way back from the edge We start to wonder if our ropes are long enough.
We decide to set up and send the first abseiler to the edge to get a better look.
Belatedly I realise I’m the first abseiler!
I’m not scared.
Honest.
Ensuring I have my ascenders at the ready I get on our 75m rope and work my way down to the edge. It’s set as single strand with the 60m attached to the other end in case they need to lower me further.
I can see the pool, calls I.
It’s an impressive if somewhat intimidating drop.
Does the rope reach? Call they
I can’t see, there’s a slope to an overhang then maybe a ledge. I’m going to head down to see.
Living up to Aphrodite’s name its a lovely, beautiful, and pleasurable abseil.
Alternating between steep, near verticle slabs and long overhangs.
And the 75m reachs with about 6 or 7m to spare.
The top of the slot feels like it wraps around and encloses you before funneling out. After 5 days of drizzle there is enough flow that you can’t really get out of the spray. Prefect on a late Autumn day.
And just like that we are all down.
All that’s left now is the traverse around to the exit gully and a quick punch back up to the road.
wild_elly, dw3lla, freedom_runs, mshbee, estonian_pirate and meeeeeeeeeeee
Most people visit Thunder Canyon from the bottom, wandering up from the junction after absieling in from Claustral or Ranon.
After all you get to visit the best bit while also doing another of the Classic 3. The tops not worth it. Said they.
By they are all worth doing once say I.
We’d actually planned this several times. Once we canned it because Gadget and H couldn’t make it.
Then they canned it because I couldn’t make it.
Then we canned it because Jason couldn’t make it.
And we all but canned it this time because Kris and Muz were going to a running race.
But the race fell through so at the last minute Thunder was back in business. Baby!
We head out along the ridge with a couple of options of where we might drop in.
Stupidly I ignored my own advice about wearing long pants in favour of lighter weight and more room in the keg. This meant by the end of the walk in I’d have a bit less skin to carry out too…
About mid ridge we gain a rocky outcrop. The views were stunning and the walking a lot less cutty.
We have more scrub to push through but it’s not as bad from here out.
Finally we get to a spot we think we should drop in so as not to miss a short uppersection of canyon. We follow a minor tributary down hoping it offers an easy break but it cliffs out much too high for our ropes.
We push back out and gain a small nose that leads down, down, down, cliff out.
At least there are ledges below us that have decent trees to reanchor from. Still we seem to be a long way up.
We set a rope and I absiel down and spend a stupidily long time looking for options to get us into the creek. Problem is I can see another ledge below but still can’t tell how far down the creek is. It sounds like a fair cascade or waterfall below.
I have the irrational thought that we are directly above Westaway Falls. The eap shows them a fair bit down stream but I’m second guessing.
I call Jason down for back up. He shares concern about the water echoing below and whether we are missing a good bit of canyon. I show him a couple of options including one a little up stream.
I can see the creek bed there. Says he. He has better eye sight than me but I make out the rocky creek bed amid the dark shadows.
Come on down we call.
We get everyone down to the ledge and Kristo leads the abseil to the Canyon.
Oh Wow this looks like the start of Empress. he calls.
We’d gotten our entry spot on at the start of a short but pretty section, that as Kristo said, had the start of Empress Canyon vibes.
We make our way down stream. some tricky ledge walking and spidermaning keeps us dry for the time being.
The canyon opens a bit and we make our way down a pretty gorge. There’s some scrambling, wading and downclimbs. Basic good fun.
I have the anchor, calls Kris from down canyon right.
But there is an awesome looking slot up here. Calls Jason from back abit canyon right. We check out the slot. It looks great and jason is super keen to drop in but Kris has already set rope. Wait til you see this abseil thou, He calls.
We head down. He is right this abseil looks amazeballs.
Of course this means we’ll need to do a second trip to do the slot option.
Kylie fishing for glowworms
Ms H Bee dropping in
once down…
Glowworms behind waterfalls
While I have visited this section many times from below it always blows me away and coming in from the top was just a bit extra special .
And before long we come to the Claustral Junction. From here down the canyon is well known to all of us and the rest of the trii is prettt cruzy
Remember just like it takes 7 wipes to know for sure you only needed 6, you need to do the canyon yourself to know whether it’s worth it.
They are all worth doing once and I’d definately repeat this one.
Dave, Jason, Hywaida, Kristo, Kylie and meeeeeeeee
A canyoning trip to New Zealand has been on the wish list for years but just hadn’t popped to the top of the priority list.
Until now.
The lead up was a bit chaotic and at various points it was looking like not all of us would make it but somehow the stars aligned and, thankfully, all 6 of us found ourselves making the acquaintance of every sand fly in Haast.
With the flies in a suitable frenzy over the taste of our blood we started our adventures off with a bang in Robinsons Creek.
a 15min walk up the hill and we are straight into it.
The patterns and colours in the Schist was beautiful. Haast Schist is a metamorphic rock formed from sand and mudstones that have been reheated and placed under pressure then subjected to folding and uplifting to give it the patterns and swirls.
All good, gentle fun so far. A couple of small hydraulic features to be aware of.
The route is really well set. Unlike the typical Blue Mountain canyons we are use to there are times where you need to set traverse lines to avoid the hydraulics at the bottom of the waterfall, or loose log jams that act a sheives part way down. We are not unfamiliar with high flow canyons and practice this stuff a lot but it was a lot of fun putting our skills into practice in an easier canyon on day 1.
Then we come to the cavern pitch.
Jason sets the rope and I jump on, peering over the void.
It looks epic.
Then I notice a guy in board shorts below…. He’d scrambled up from the bottom but doesn’t hang around long. It was cold enough in the 5mm wettie.
Anyhoo, this pitch was amazebalz
Kylie at the top. The roar of the water beside you is awe inspiring.
We had this one ear marked in case water levels were up. They weren’t up too much but we thought what the heck let’s do it anyway. None of us had done it before.
Making it more appealing was it was just a 15min drive from camp meaning a sleep in and trip to the cafe for coffee and stuff.
Notes say to park on next to the bridge and get in the creek.
We do our best billy goat gruff impressions. We are not trolls, honest.
A short walk down the creek brings us to the first abseil
TBH this one is a bit of a nothing abseil, but it does shortcut the top part of the tourist trail.
We get back onto the tourist trail and make our way down. There is a spot where it crosses to the left, now we are not sure if we were just a bit excited but it wasn’t over clear you needed to cross straight over and where we do cross doesn’t seem to be a trail. We make our way down stream a bit and I think I see a bit of flagging tape up the hill on the right.
The Kris and Vince see it too, or at least they think they do. we angle up to where we think the trail is.
No trail. We angle “down stream” a bit before deciding to drop back into the creek.
I put down stream in quotation marks because as we hit the creek and start “down” before Vince says
Isn’t the water flowing the wrong way?
We must have struck up the hill just before as a tributary came in and the main stream swung away.
anyhoo
We pop over the small ridge back into the right creek and pick the tourist trail up again and follow it down as the creek drops below us.
We take a guess at where the second drop might be and descend back down. Spot on.
Vince cleaning R2
From here down the drops come with just short walks between.
It’s a pretty creek and more canyony than I thought it would be.
R3
The abseils are varied too, from easy slabs beside the flow, to stepped ledges through it.
Kylie on R5
Vince R6
Vince on R7
Hywaida R7
Abseils 7, 8 , 9, and 10 were definitely the highlights though R8 has to be the slipperiest slab I’ve ever slipped slab down.
The infinity pool at the base of R8 is without a doubt the prettiest, most awesome natural cliff top pool I’ve been in.
And Absolutely none of us got a photo of it. We have to be fairly well gobsmacked not to get a photo.
Saying that I can see how it would be problematic in high flow.
R9 is the big one. 50m from an exposed, semi hanging anchor.
But it’s an easy run down a gentle slab
Can’t believe I took photos of this but missed the pool up top.
R10 is the most technical of the trip. It has a couple of over hung ledges right in the flow with some foot entrapment hazards to keep you on your game.
Kylie negotiating the second ledge. There a deep grooves here that just feel like they want to grab your boots.
All while copping a face full of white
Hywaida is in there somewhere as Kylie watches on
Kris basically walking on water
Vince on rope duties
From here there is a long creek walk down to R11, then a longer creek walk down to the bottom exit. We choose just to forgo all that and just exit from the base of R10..
It’s a steep narrow, not quite knife edge ridge, full of wait-a-while and leeches but it goes easy enough. and gets us back into the upper section from where we pick up the tourist trail back to the cars.
“The strength of the team is each individual member. The strength of each member is the team.” — Phil Jackson
