It had been a couple of years since I had the chance to catch up with this legend so when he messaged to say he was in the Blues I was keen to get in a canyon with him again.
Mark was one of the first Blue Mountains canyoners to head over to Europe and bring back whitewater skills and more advanced rope techniques and he had a fair impact on my canyoning trajectory.
Anyhoo, We decide on a smaller day and head off to check out water dragon canyon.
The ‘Gambie is a popular spot today and we pass several groups starting the lower section, and another on their way to Water Dragon as we cross the river and head up the other side.
We drop in at the usual spot and make our way down to the canyon
It’s much drier than I remember
I tend to forget how dark and pretty the main constriction is. Perhaps because it is so hard to photograph
But after a short time conversing with glow worms re emerge into the light
Back into the Wollemgambe. Its a glorious day
When we get to the exit there is a rescue in place just down stream. We enquire if any assistance is required but are waved off. they have it under control.
And there’s nothing left to do but climb out and stroll back up to the car.
Jason, Vince, Hywaida, Kris, Dave, Kylie and meeee.
It had been a while since we did a trip down K-Main and with a little bit of water still about we thought it would be a great opportunity to go and get wet.
A beautiful day in the mountain myst
Water levels were lowish but still up enough for the falls to have reasonable flow
Our last few trips here have been via the slot. I’d about forgotten this little alcove on the Wall
Me on the final pitch of the Wall with Jason manning the next anchor
Jason and Kris.
Vince on anchor duty with Hywaida getting set
Top of the bridal veil abseil
Hywaida in the Bridal veil
top of the final abseil
Kylie
And then its a quick boulder hop down to the exit.
the overcast conditions were welcome on the climb but the route up the ridge was a lot looser than I expected with the soil very dry despite with the moisture in the air.
The south coast of NSW is one of Kylie’s favourite places and I can easily see why. The colours of the dramatic coast line are mesmerising, the escarpments are grand and as a bonus the mountain biking is truly awesome.
With a bit of leave over Christmas I thought I’d be mad not to join her on a road trip.
One of our goals would be to squeeze in this popular multiday walk.
The Light to Light stretches between Boyds Tower and the Green Cape Light house in Beowa National Park, south of Eden. Being about 30km it’s doable in a day but most people do it over 3 days, making use of the offical camps sites at Saltwater Creek and Bittangabee bay (these are drive in campsites with showers and toilets so bookings are essential in peek times.)
We wanted to enjoy the beaches and scenery so decided to do it as a 2 day trip. As we had the mountain bikes we opted to forgo the pick up and drop off logistics (You can pay for a shuttle service at approx $120 per person) and made use of the bikes for the return journey.
Boyds Tower appears to be the usual start to the walk but looking at the topography of the forestry roads we figured it might be an easier ride North to South so we stashed the bikes in the bush near Boyds Tower and drove down to Green Cape to start the walk from there.
Along the way we did a side trip into Saltwater Camp to stash some extra water.
Part 1: Green Cape Light house to Bittangabee Bay
Full of beans and anticipation we set off at the crack of 10am in high spirits. It is a stunning bit of coast down here which is why I’m a bit baffled as to why this section of trail stubbornly avoids it.
TBH, this was my least favourite section of the walk. We could hear the ocean, we could occasionally see the ocean but without large side trips we couldn’t see the coast line.
We wander through tunnels of mallee scrub and across open plateau, it’s like the trail is trying to avoid any elevation loss or gain for the sake of it and at one stage I find myself thinking, I hope I haven’t driven 5hrs for 30km of this shit.
Gadget with the Light house off in the distance
Coming from the other way I can’t help but think this would be a disappointing end to the walk and you’d only be doing it for the sake of doing it and getting to the Light House.
NPs are doing a lot of upgrade work on the trail so perhaps this is a temporary diversion but it doesn’t look temporary.
Luckily the plethora of goannas and bird life were a distraction from the flat boring trudge.
Lyrebird scratching aboutlace monitor, Varanus variuscute little water holelace monitor, Varanus variuslace monitor, Varanus varius
8kms in Bittangabee bay was a welcome site.
Part 2: Bittangabee bay to Hegarty’s bay
NP were doing upgrade works to the trail around the headland so we were diverted in through the camp. It was packed. A sign near the toilet block directed us back on to the trail on the other side but, confusingly a few hundred meters along we came to a barricade and signage preventing people from accessing that section from the other direction.
Anyhoo, We make the short side trip down to the surprisingly people-less bay for a swim and a bit of lunch. We also got lucky as the grey clouds dispersed and the sun brought the colours out. Even if you are not doing the walk or camping for the night a visit to Bittangabee Bay is well worth it if you are down this way.
From here the trail does a wide arc around Bittangabee with view after view of the stunning bay.
Beautiful from any angle.
We are now following the coast line with just the occasional diversion inland.
This is what we were here for
Looking back down the coast with the light house in the distance
Looking up the coast with stunning cliff lines jutting out over the South Pacific OceanAnd stunning geology with folds and intrusions and flows and stuff
And giant goannas decorated in moss
Did I mention the colours?
If Bittangabee bay was stunning, and it was, Hegartys bay is beyond words
Once a publicised walk in camp it’s now officially closed for camping. Again NPs were doing work on the trail here, this time though we are diverted down on to the rockshelf. This was one of my favourite parts of the walk and it seems nuts they would divert the walk around some of it.
Oh, did I mention the colours?
secret waterhole just big enough for 1
Part 3: Hegartys bay to Saltwater Creek
Leaving Hegartys the trail swings back onto the plateau, but at least there are views of the coast
Even the bobcat driver got bored and tried to add little sweepy turns.. (actually well designed trail with water run off controlled by small grade reversals at each bend.)
Jacky Dragon (?)
And we stroll into Saltwater creek around 4pm. Again despite the drive in camp being packed the beach was all but empty.
Kylie was getting blisters on her toes so we stop to tape them up while we refill our water bottles.
TBH we’d overestimated how much water we would need. Not knowing if it was going to be baking hot or how much the salt water spray would take out of us we’d packed 3 litres each. I have well over half left when we got to the drop.
We recalculate how much we’d need for the rest of the walk and push on.
Part 4: Saltwater creek to Mowarry beach.
This may explain why so few people were in the water.
follow the yellow brick road… or sumfink
Once again we follow gorgeous coastline where the colours seem too vivid to be real
We come to an open grass headland and assume it’s the Mowarry campground. the kangaroos had it to themselves though.
And continue down to the beach, which the kangaroos also had to themselves.
We are surprised to find a camp spot right next to the beach so take advantage of it.
With some little side trips for swims and views we’d done about 28 or 29km today. For some weird reason flatter walks knock me around more than our usual scampering up and down canyons so I was feeling it. Kylie has sprained her ankle the week before and was suffering a head cold so was just as happy as me to have one more swim to wash off the grime of the day and set up camp.
Unbeknownst to us the offical camp spot is up above the beach on the next headland. A tribe of partiers descended in the middle of the night for a mini bush doof which was hilarious but a spattering of rain had them running for their beds not too late into the night.
Part 5: Mowarry beach to Boyds Tower.
With just 7 or 8km of walking left we could have had a lazy morning but we were also keen to get the 30km ride back to the cars knocked over before the day got too hot so we were up early for a brekkie with a view then hit the trail
Up over the headland it was a short walk to leatherjacket bay. Leatherjacket bay must be the easiest to reach drive in secluded spot. It was littered with fast food rubbish and toilet paper. Why people would do that to such a beautiful spot is beyond me.
And up the next rise we catch our first glimpse of Boyds Tower
But the walk wasn’t done yet.
and there you have it. Boyds Tower.
Boyds Tower is an unfinished light house created by Ben Boyd. a character once respected for his early settlement down here but recently being cancelled due to him being one of Australia’s most infamous “Blackbirders”
Blackbirders imported cheap labour. Boyd had “recruited” labour from various pacific islands and shipped them to Australia. By the time he got them to Australia though the union movement, religious groups and city based politicians saw it for what it was, low key slavery, and basically outlawed the practice.
Those already at work on Boyds lands down tools and demanded to be sent home.
Find your own way home said Boyd. Many of those brought out found themselves stranded in Sydney with no way to get home…..
All that said his biographer claims he was considerably less racist and cruel than many of the politicians who had publicly condemned him.
Anyhoo, We reach the tower and the end of our walk. We woof down some food, swap backpacks for bikes and ride through the centre of the park, down Duckhole road back to the car.
It’s 30km on what my mate Bernard would refer to “gently undulating” dirt roads. At times the bull dust is so soft it feel’s like you are riding with flat tyres and there’s a few pinches to make sure the legs are still burning but it’s not a bad ride.
Kylie’s fairly new to mountain biking and injury has kept her off the bike for a bit so when we reach the junction with Green Cape light house road I offer to forge ahead and bring the car back to pick her up where ever she gets to.
There’s some fun and fast down hill sections here but also a couple of steepish pinches. It’s the stiff ocean breeze smacking you in the face in the last 2km that hurts the legs the most though.
I get to the car, quickly get changed and drive back up the road, Kylie’s not that far behind. It’s only a couple of kilometres to the end, isn’t it. asks she
Yep, says I. You want to finish it off don’t you?
She grins and pedals on…
All up 36+Km of walking and 30Km ride in 2 days. Not a bad effort.
Our review.
The Grade:
National Parks grade the walk a 4. “Grade 4: Bushwalking experience recommended. Tracks may be long, rough and very steep. Directional signage may be limited.”
Other than the length and a few short sections where you need to pick your way along the beach or over rocky outcrops I’m not sure how it’s 4. it’s fairly flat. I guess the recent upgrades have included adding stairs to any of the steeper sections so maybe before the upgrades….
Would I recommend it?
Sure. it’s definitely worth doing. The views are amazeballs
If your idea of bushwalking is well maintained and sign posted touristy type trails and you want to try something a bit longer or want to try your first overnight walk with the advantage of maintained camp sites this would be perfect.
Would I do it again?
TBH. I wouldn’t bother with the bit between Bittangabee bay and Green Cape Lighthouse again unless I was adding more time and doing side trips out to things like Pulpit rock and checking out the little bays.
Access: Short section of dirt road then an easy walk. Thanks to Ty N. for his hard work fixing up the old track it is an easy walk up to the falls, though as of July 2024 the trail is a little overgrown.
Navigation: Navigation is fairly straight forward.
Map: Lithgow 1:25000 These can be purchased at Lithgow Tourist information center or online for around $10 each though not really needed here
Time: It takes about 20 min to walk up to the falls
fern filled gorge leading up to the falls
Cicada Falls is a small waterfall in a very pretty gorge on the outskirts of Lithgow.
The walk up is straight forward on an informal trail, though there is some scrambling and exposure.
Getting There:
From the end of Inch street continue onto Bells road then past the water treatment plant onto the dirt road towards Water Works Gully. This can be a little rough with large puddles after rain.
Just before the first creek crossing look for a road up to the right (2wd vehicles will need to park here.) Turn right and follow the road up 100m and take the left option at the intersection. Follow this along the side of the creek. This road can get very boggy but walking on the right bank is easy going.
The walking track continues from the end of the road, slightly higher to the right. As of July 2024 the trail is over grown so can be hard to spot. A few large trees have fallen across the trail near the start, however it follows a flat bench above the creek and other than clambering over the trees it is easy going.
The trail crosses the creek at some industrial relics as the gorge starts to close in.
This section is the most over grown at the time at the time of writing, as you push through the ferns.
After another creek crossing the trail climbs slightly on a bench and then swings around to the right and the falls appear.
Above the falls is a cute little micro canyon that leads up to a small dam (now totally silted up)
And at the very top of the scrubby gully above is a low, wide horseshoe style falls that really only flows at more than a misty drizzle after good rain.
Note: The great outdoors is an ever changing place. Bush fires, changing weather, vegetation growth and forestry activities can all effect the trail conditions and thus the difficulty of the walk. These are a rough guide only and are by no means meant to be a definitive guide . They do not replace the need adequate map reading and navigational skills
Note 1: Taking care While reasonably well known these spots are still wild places and care needs to be taken around cliff edges and on the steep trails. Carrying the right gear as well as having adequate food, water and clothing is important. Always tell someone where you are going and when you expect to get back.
Emergency beckons (PLBs) can be hired from Katoomba Police for very little.
Note 2:First aid A basic first aid kit is essential bit of kit whenever heading into the Aussie bush. A basic first aid is highly recommended
Note 3: Maps and Navigation Having the right map, a compass and knowing how to read them is very important when heading into the bush. If you are new to bush walking joining a club or accompanying more experienced walker for you first few outing is a very good idea. I found practicing map reading on well defined trails was helpful when I started out.
The Maps mentioned are the 1:25000 series. They can be purchase at Lithgow tourism information center, from outdoors shops or online for around $10 each.
Note 4: These are wild and beautiful places, respect them. If you are able to carry something in you can carry it out. Don’ be a tosser. Leaving your rubbish behind is a sure way to ruin it for every one else.
Note: The great outdoors is an ever changing place. Bush fires, changing weather, vegetation growth and forestry activities can all effect the trail conditions and thus the difficulty of the walk. These are a rough guide only and are by no means meant to be a definitive guide . They do not replace the need adequate map reading and navigational skills
Note 1: Taking care While reasonably well known these spots are still wild places and care needs to be taken around cliff edges and on the steep trails. Carrying the right gear as well as having adequate food, water and clothing is important. Always tell someone where you are going and when you expect to get back.
Emergency beckons (PLBs) can be hired from Katoomba Police for very little.
Note 2:First aid A basic first aid kit is essential bit of kit whenever heading into the Aussie bush. A basic first aid is highly recommended
Note 3: Maps and Navigation Having the right map, a compass and knowing how to read them is very important when heading into the bush. If you are new to bush walking joining a club or accompanying more experienced walker for you first few outing is a very good idea. I found practicing map reading on well defined trails was helpful when I started out.
The Maps mentioned are the 1:25000 series. They can be purchase at Lithgow tourism information center, from outdoors shops or online for around $10 each.
Note 4: These are wild and beautiful places, respect them. If you are able to carry something in you can carry it out. Don’ be a tosser. Leaving your rubbish behind is a sure way to ruin it for every one else.
Go Go Gadget had been in a moon boot with a broken foot for the last six weeks and now she was out we thought we’d ease back into it.
Or sumfink
We’d thrown around a few options and settled on Serendipity canyon at Mt Wilson. But, um well, Unpopular opinion: I’ve never been a big fan of Serendipity. Just always thought it was overrated. Gadgets wasn’t a fan either.
So we changed plans last minute and headed to a little one off the Bells Line that neither of us had visited before.
Named after an elaborate pot plantation in the head waters that got busted in the 90s I had not given too much thought to Marihuana Canyon before and had low expectations but it was something new so why not.
Scrub bashing down we avoid the upper cliff lines but get to the lower cliff and decide to rope up.
And we shall never speak about the tiny shrubs we used for anchors ever again.
As I use to joke with my old mate Della, if it’s wider than your thumb it’s ok. We never did clarify if you held your thumb vertical or horizontal.
Anyhoo
We enter the creek a little high (see what I did there.)
But it didn’t take long to start getting pretty
And before long it drops into a stunning little canyon.
The water was so clear.
And soon we reach the junction with South Bowen
We work our way upstream through some very nice canyon section.
A wider section of South Bowen
TBH it was hard work making our way upstream so we got to our exit and hauled out.
He felt that his whole life was some kind of dream and he sometimes wondered whose it was and whether they were enjoying it: D Adam’s
Access: A nice walk along fire trail up a gentle gully. Short section of dirt road to car park.
It is a dog friendly walk but is popular with families so please keep your pooches under control and clean up their poo.
Navigation: Navigation is straight forward
Time: 30min out. 30min back
Waterworks gully is a pleasant walk up the gully beside Farmers Creek. There are a few creek crossings to navigate. With a bit of care and finesse you can keep your feet dry at normal water levels but if the creek is full expect wet shoes.
Getting there:
Follow Bells rd all the way to the end and continue onto the dirt road.
You can park
1. On a cleared area to the right just after the tar ends as per Ida Falls
2. A bit further on at the water treatment plant (don’t block the access gates)
3. Further past the treatment plant if you don’t mind a few puddles and rougher road.
The walk follows the road as it winds its way up the gully to Dam 1
Contrary some non local belief, Dam 1 is the lower dam. It was built in 1896 and is no longer used to store water.
The gully bellow the dam is flanked by towering cliff lines, occasionally defaced with graffiti, some historic some less so.
The cliffs on the right are undercut in places and a bit of exploration will show the remains of old humpy’s used by the workers and the remains of the foundation of the foreman’s cottage.
Eagle eyed folk might even spot the infamous T Lawson rock
This has been a source of mystery to generations of locals with wild rumours about satanism, Masonic rituals and even it being a memorial to a horse.
However some sleuthing by this Author and others seems to have solved the puzzle.
For those more adventurous souls there are plenty of side gully’s, most of which give access the the tops, to explore and it is possible to go passed the dam wall and continue up the the base of dam 2
Return: The way you came in
Note: The great outdoors is an ever changing place. Bush fires, changing weather, vegetation growth and forestry activities can all effect the trail conditions and thus the difficulty of the walk. These are a rough guide only and are by no means meant to be a definitive guide . They do not replace the need adequate map reading and navigational skills
Note 1: Taking care While reasonably well known these spots are still wild places and care needs to be taken around cliff edges and on the steep trails. Carrying the right gear as well as having adequate food, water and clothing is important. Always tell someone where you are going and when you expect to get back. Emergency beckons (PLBs) can be hired from Katoomba Police for very little.
Note 2:First aid A basic first aid kit is essential bit of kit whenever heading into the Aussie bush. A basic first aid is highly recommended
Note 3: Maps and Navigation Having the right map, a compass and knowing how to read them is very important when heading into the bush. If you are new to bush walking joining a club or accompanying more experienced walker for you first few outing is a very good idea. I found practicing map reading on well defined trails was helpful when I started out. The Maps mentioned are the 1:25000 series. They can be purchase at Lithgow tourism information center, from outdoors shops or online for around $10 each. Note 4: These are wild and beautiful places, respect them. If you are able to carry something in you can carry it out. Don’ be a tosser. Leaving your rubbish behind is a sure way to ruin it for every one else.
sleepwhenwearedead 