The trail out to the Sphinx was longer but far less steep than what we did yesterday to the Pyramid summit but the day was meant to be even hotter so we got an early start.
The trail winds it’s way up a gentle ridge and there is plenty to explore just off track
I’t a tad over 3.5km out to the Sphinx, gentle uphill most of the way.
Given the weather forecast of heat heat and more heat we opted not to do the side trip to the top of the castle.
The Sphinx
More like Darth Vader or Batman if you ask me
A short skip further down the trail gets you to turtle rock. The track ends here and you could scramble up but, again with the day heating up, we just have morning tea then head back to camp.
By the time we get back we’ve worked up a sweat and decide it’s a good time to visit an underground creek.
From Booboo Booboo we do a bit of a down and around, crossing the boarder into Qld and into Girraween.
Bald Rock and Girraween are not that far apart as the crow flys, but we aren’t crows and the road needs to circle around the mountainous country in between.
We roll into an almost empty camp ground, the Christmas/New years crowd have dispersed. Just about everyone else we see here we saw at Boonboo Boonoo. Haha
We have a couple of nights here and planned to smash out as much as possible. but the heat was oppressive so we cut our list of things to do from “Everything all at once” to our “must sees” and worked out a bit of a plan for best time of day to see the things. In between we do something rare for us. We chill out and enjoy the camp ground.
and with views like these out the back of the camper why wouldn’t you
The neighbours were amusing. Knobbie the dragon was preaching the virtues of sun baking. Maggie Pie seemed very engrossed in the topic.
We thought we’d start our stay with a quick walk up to the Granite arch.
An nice easy walk lead us past serval granite outcrops up to this beauty.
On our way to Bald Rock we had stopped at “Thunderbolt’s hideout.” and joked at the time that if we didn’t stop on the way in we wouldn’t stop on the way back as we’d be sick of looking at Granite tors and boulders .
Narrator: Neither Craig nor Kylie got sick of looking at granite tors or boulders.
Just adjusting the placement for a better composition
A big storm role din with lots of thunder and lightning so we dashed back to camp.
Knobby Dragon. I think. Could be a Jacky Dragon. I aint know. I’m not a dragon tamer.
The storm passed over without rain and the sky cleared so we thought a late afternoon walk up the Pyramid would be just the ticket.
It’s about 2km from the campground to the summit, so not a big walk.
But it’s steep.
While not the steepest signposted tourist track we’ve been up (I’d probably give that to the Red Track at Bungonia) added to the steepness is the exposure.
Grippy shoes and dry weather is a must for this one. Once the rock is wet you’d have more grip on an ice skating rink.
The first part is along a clear easy path. This leads to some stairs. They lead to a big granite slab. White dots lead the easiest path up. All good so far
Then you scramble up this rocky chute, referred to as the pyramid passage.
Then comes the traverse.
You make your way out, angling up. To the right the granite slab towers above. To your left a steep slope dropping off to nothing but air.
It’s terrifying but worth it. Say a couple coming back down.
(Belatedly, on the way down, we find there is a less terrifying option of veering right and around the back side of the boulders above)
Past traverse its another little scramble before you round a corner to views of the infamous balancing rocks, defying gravity (for the meantime) right on the edge of the dome.
Breath taking in the soft afternoon light of sunset
The view across to the second “Pyramid” and equally impressive granite dome.
If you close both eyes and try really hard to imagine a pyramid it looks just like a pyramid.
The aboriginal name for these peaks seems to have been Terrawambella. Early pastoralists mapped them as “the domes” at some point they became known as the Pyramids.
With the sun sitting low in the west the light was magical and we had the views all to ourselves.
Well, us and Mr Cunningham.
I only recently learnt that Cunningham skinks have the ability to change their colour a bit, sort of like a chameleon, to help blend into the background.
Once back down off the dome we veer off track to check out other balancing rocks and views
Gadget and The Great Pyramid of Girraween
It’s been a good day. We have punched out a couple of short but steep walks. Basketswamp Falls, the Granite Arch and the Pyramid.
We get back to camp as another storm rolls through. The temperature was due to ramp up again tomorrow so we plan an early morning trek out to the Sphinx
But not before a bit of late night herping
it was a frogathon but I forgot to charge my head torch so had to call it before the snakes came looking for diner.
Finishing up our coastal sojourn we head west. Our plan was to come back down the western line.
As usual we had planned to pack a fair bit in to a short time.
The Western line probably isn’t in the forefront of most peoples minds as a summer trip. We are not most people
Are we crazy? asks one of us
Yeah. says the other as if it was the most obvious answer in the history of obvious answers.
The fact was summer was when we both had time off so…
Our first destination was Bald Rock.
I’d never heard of it but Kylie said it was something she really wanted to see.
It’s right on the Qld border and part of the New England Granite belt, which was formed about 250million years ago. It’s called the New England granite belt because, you know, nothing resembles Old England more than goannas running across massive granite domes…
Anyhoo
We pull into the car park and cook up a breakfast then make our way up to the trailhead.
There are several walk options, from super short to all day. We opt for the summit walk.
A reasonably short walk leads us to the base of the massive granite dome. This point is wheel chair accessible and if its as far as you get it still bloody impressive.
A mountain of granite towers above.
White reflectors stuck on the rock were the only indicators of a path up.
Of course we follow them. Mostly
It was steep.
Jokes
It’s a little steep but not *that* steep
It’s a short, punchy walk up to the summit and it was spectacular.
Rising 260m above the surrounding terrain, Bald Rock is the largest granite monolith in Australia and the colours are amazing, even on an overcast morning.
as it levels out we pass a few boulders and suddenly this view bursts into view
There is something humbling about big terrain. Human trivialities seem… Trivial
These guys were everywhere and they were curious but they were friendly enough. The bee not the warn out merrells.
We share the summit with several other groups. Families, grey nomads and, us. (There is a song in there somewhere)
We return to the car and back track a little to our camp site in Boonoo Boonoo.
Popeye creek pops in and out of canyon sections along much of its course and it’s one I’d not done before.
A big Saturday trip had been foiled by thunderstorms and we just needed to shake out the cobwebs but couldn’t be arsed repacking ropes and stuff so thought why not have a look at some non abseil sections in Popeye.
Meeting at the crack of 10am, or there abouts we make our way in in no time.
We’d be entering the canyon a long way upstream of where the jamieson guide recommends but not too far from the increasingly popular Popeye falls.
The creek cuts a deep, promising looking cleft in the sandstone.
A short section of narrow u bends hide a pleasant little canyon.
There’s a bit of bridging to stay dry above the knees. But the water is a pleasant temp anyway
Not the figure 8 pool
It is very pretty.
Parts very similar to the Dumbano tunnels.
We are already impressed. the canyon opens up a bit and Waratahs line the banks.
Waratahs along a spur off Waratah ridge? Who would have thunk it
And soon we come to the falls.
Most visitors to here avoid the canyon bit and keep their feet dry by scrambling down the nose.
It’s a funky little waterfall through an arch in a side creek
We phaff about with photos for a bit, we have to pool all to ourselves., but then push on downstream to the next canyon section.
A bit wider and deeper it’s a nice walk through section
It’s nice
Again the canyon opens out. We believe it’s a 1km scrub bash down to the next bit so, happy with our easy day, we retrace our steps back up to the waterfall. A crowd of people are here now.
There’s an easier way in, says old mate sucking in a vape.
We came that way, replies Ellie very politely. We just had a look at some other stuff while out here.
We leave the guards and scramble out into the cliff top for lunch.
Access: Easy access to the start of the trail. Dirt roads but well maintained at time of writing
Navigation: Navigation is fairly straight forward. Signposted tourist trails
Map: Lithgow
Time: There’s various options but give yourself a couple of hours
The name is inspired by the resemblance of the spectacular towering pagodas to some fabled lost city, The lost city has been a well known favourite to 4WDers, rock climbers and avid bushwalkers for years but recent works by NPWS has improve accessibility and the area now has a family friendly loop.
While not as shady or rainforesty as the Grand Canyon loop at Blackheath it more than make up for it with towering cliffscapes and industrial heritage
Getting there:
There are a couple of options of where to start, The Northern Lookout (Traditionally more well known) and the Southern Lookout (up until recently more of a local secret.)
Drive out of Lithgow via Atkinson Street and continue up State Mine Gully Road.
(Halfway up the steep hill (Dobbs Drift) there is a parking area on the left and it’s worth a stopping for a quick side trip to have a look here.)
Drive to the top of the hill. The first turn on the left as it flattens out will take you to the southern car park.
Alternatively continue along and onto Glowworm tunnel road. Take the left fork at the Bungleboori Picnic ground, then left again. this will take you to the Northern car park.
Suggested Walks.
Easy 1: Start at the Southern Lookout and enjoy the expansive views over toward the lost city. Follow the main trail down to Marrangaroo creek then return the way you came.
Easy 2: Start at the Northern Lookout and enjoy wandering through the amazing pagodas. Follow the trail down Marrangaroo Creek then return the same way.
Through Walk: Do a car shuffle and walk between the 2 lookouts. I’d suggest starting at the Northern Lookout and walk to the southern lookout via the main trail.
Southern Loop: If you don’t want to do a car shuffle but want a loop rather than an out and back I’d suggest starting at the Southern Lookout. Descend via the miners track then come up the main trail. This provides views over some old mining heritage and takes in a nice waterfall (best after a bit of rain) then a more gentle climb out along the gorgeous Marrangaroo Creek.
The Full Box and dice: If you want to take it all in I’d suggest parking at the Northern Lookout. Walk down and up to the Southern lookout via the main trail then descend the miners track back to Marrangaroo creek and hence back to the Northern Lookout not the main trail.
Of course if you don’t wish to tackle the stairs it’s worth just visiting the lookouts.
Anyone want to come on a trip that might be a big day of scrub bash to a poor quality canyon? Say I
Hell yeah! says the above awesome folk.
It’s been a hot minute since I’d organised a semi exploratory trip to a canyon I’d not visited before so it was about bloody time I got out of my funk and Kylie might have gave me a bit of a nudge.
The entry in the Jamieson guide labels it “Ashcroft Ravine” with the description it includes the best bit of Wentworth Creek. There was a reference elsewhere of “Cut-throat canyon.” None of it was clear on what was what and where was where but anyhoo.
The little information we could find suggested the first part of the creek (Variously marked on maps as “Franks” or “Franki”) was a viscous scrub bash so we substituted that for a slightly less scrubby bash down a ridge to drop in right at the start of a canyony bit via 2 short abseils.
Straight away it was more impressive than I was expecting and every bit as slippery.
No scrub in sight and a pleasant bit of canyon greeted us
It was dark and cool but pretty
The canyon section only went a short way before opening into a beautiful, more open gorge
And that would be the theme of Franks(i) short, South Bowenesk canyon sections and more open ravine.
With some tunnel sections and squeezy bits along the way
And it kept going
Very South Bownen like in spots
With tunnels
And happy smiley faces
We made it to the junction with Wentworth creek and had Elevensies.
Wentworth creek put me in mind of the end of Bell creek or sumfink big and grand.
And soon we came across one of the features that when I heard about them really piqued my interest
Tucked away in alcoves along the walls are a series of Stalagmites and Stalactites. In sandstone! I’m assuming there is a drip line passing through an ironstone layer high in manganese or some such, but if any geologist out there have a better explanation please leave a comment.
Older flowstone covered in moss and algae
They were awesome and more numerous than I had expected
On we went and the gorge continued to be impressive
The banks opened out a little and we alternated between traversing high on banks and wading down the creek depending.
Just before the tributary we had marked as our exit Jen and Kirstie spotted a ramp leading up in roughly the right direction that looked like it might bypass one of the 3 climbs Jamieson described.
Kylie and Kirstie scouted up while the rest of us got changed.
It’s bit dodge but it looks like it goes, Called they.
Be careful, called us.
Before long the agreed whistle blasts came to inform us it did indeed go.
We were now in the exit creek but soon came to the small waterfalls that would be the main challenge of getting out.
Reports I had been able to find described a climb on the right.
Kylie gets up to a series of fractured ledges that looked doable but sketchy and dropped a rope down. Jason and I ascended up to her.
The next section looked shit and we weren’t sure what was above. Kylie stood on a log to step up to the next ledge but the log snapped with a thud.
In the meantime the rest of the group were looking for other options.
Back to the left might be doable. Called they
The lidar looks better on the left. Says Jen
I’ll drop back down and check the left option. Said I
Kristie leads me back around bulge and across a very narrow ledge. A short slab climb (maybe grade 7 or 8 but very exposed) presented itself. Up I went. A narrow ledge ramped up below the cliff line.
It goes. says I.
We got a rope up and the rest followed.
It had taken us about an hour and a half to work this puzzle out but once solved it was simple enough.
From there is was a trudge back up to the top of the ridge and back to the cars.
William Charles Wentworth, Billie C-Dubb to his mates, was a statesman, pastoralist, newspaper editor, politician, author, reformist, and advocate.
That’s the type of stuff people could achieve before TV or social media.
That and having 10 kids (Seven daughters and three sons.)
Who Frank, Franki or Ashcroft were I have no idea.
But the creeks named after them are both worth an explore.
The south coast of NSW is one of Kylie’s favourite places and I can easily see why. The colours of the dramatic coast line are mesmerising, the escarpments are grand and as a bonus the mountain biking is truly awesome.
With a bit of leave over Christmas I thought I’d be mad not to join her on a road trip.
One of our goals would be to squeeze in this popular multiday walk.
The Light to Light stretches between Boyds Tower and the Green Cape Light house in Beowa National Park, south of Eden. Being about 30km it’s doable in a day but most people do it over 3 days, making use of the offical camps sites at Saltwater Creek and Bittangabee bay (these are drive in campsites with showers and toilets so bookings are essential in peek times.)
We wanted to enjoy the beaches and scenery so decided to do it as a 2 day trip. As we had the mountain bikes we opted to forgo the pick up and drop off logistics (You can pay for a shuttle service at approx $120 per person) and made use of the bikes for the return journey.
Boyds Tower appears to be the usual start to the walk but looking at the topography of the forestry roads we figured it might be an easier ride North to South so we stashed the bikes in the bush near Boyds Tower and drove down to Green Cape to start the walk from there.
Along the way we did a side trip into Saltwater Camp to stash some extra water.
Part 1: Green Cape Light house to Bittangabee Bay
Full of beans and anticipation we set off at the crack of 10am in high spirits. It is a stunning bit of coast down here which is why I’m a bit baffled as to why this section of trail stubbornly avoids it.
TBH, this was my least favourite section of the walk. We could hear the ocean, we could occasionally see the ocean but without large side trips we couldn’t see the coast line.
We wander through tunnels of mallee scrub and across open plateau, it’s like the trail is trying to avoid any elevation loss or gain for the sake of it and at one stage I find myself thinking, I hope I haven’t driven 5hrs for 30km of this shit.
Gadget with the Light house off in the distance
Coming from the other way I can’t help but think this would be a disappointing end to the walk and you’d only be doing it for the sake of doing it and getting to the Light House.
NPs are doing a lot of upgrade work on the trail so perhaps this is a temporary diversion but it doesn’t look temporary.
Luckily the plethora of goannas and bird life were a distraction from the flat boring trudge.
Lyrebird scratching aboutlace monitor, Varanus variuscute little water holelace monitor, Varanus variuslace monitor, Varanus varius
8kms in Bittangabee bay was a welcome site.
Part 2: Bittangabee bay to Hegarty’s bay
NP were doing upgrade works to the trail around the headland so we were diverted in through the camp. It was packed. A sign near the toilet block directed us back on to the trail on the other side but, confusingly a few hundred meters along we came to a barricade and signage preventing people from accessing that section from the other direction.
Anyhoo, We make the short side trip down to the surprisingly people-less bay for a swim and a bit of lunch. We also got lucky as the grey clouds dispersed and the sun brought the colours out. Even if you are not doing the walk or camping for the night a visit to Bittangabee Bay is well worth it if you are down this way.
From here the trail does a wide arc around Bittangabee with view after view of the stunning bay.
Beautiful from any angle.
We are now following the coast line with just the occasional diversion inland.
This is what we were here for
Looking back down the coast with the light house in the distance
Looking up the coast with stunning cliff lines jutting out over the South Pacific OceanAnd stunning geology with folds and intrusions and flows and stuff
And giant goannas decorated in moss
Did I mention the colours?
If Bittangabee bay was stunning, and it was, Hegartys bay is beyond words
Once a publicised walk in camp it’s now officially closed for camping. Again NPs were doing work on the trail here, this time though we are diverted down on to the rockshelf. This was one of my favourite parts of the walk and it seems nuts they would divert the walk around some of it.
Oh, did I mention the colours?
secret waterhole just big enough for 1
Part 3: Hegartys bay to Saltwater Creek
Leaving Hegartys the trail swings back onto the plateau, but at least there are views of the coast
Even the bobcat driver got bored and tried to add little sweepy turns.. (actually well designed trail with water run off controlled by small grade reversals at each bend.)
Jacky Dragon (?)
And we stroll into Saltwater creek around 4pm. Again despite the drive in camp being packed the beach was all but empty.
Kylie was getting blisters on her toes so we stop to tape them up while we refill our water bottles.
TBH we’d overestimated how much water we would need. Not knowing if it was going to be baking hot or how much the salt water spray would take out of us we’d packed 3 litres each. I have well over half left when we got to the drop.
We recalculate how much we’d need for the rest of the walk and push on.
Part 4: Saltwater creek to Mowarry beach.
This may explain why so few people were in the water.
follow the yellow brick road… or sumfink
Once again we follow gorgeous coastline where the colours seem too vivid to be real
We come to an open grass headland and assume it’s the Mowarry campground. the kangaroos had it to themselves though.
And continue down to the beach, which the kangaroos also had to themselves.
We are surprised to find a camp spot right next to the beach so take advantage of it.
With some little side trips for swims and views we’d done about 28 or 29km today. For some weird reason flatter walks knock me around more than our usual scampering up and down canyons so I was feeling it. Kylie has sprained her ankle the week before and was suffering a head cold so was just as happy as me to have one more swim to wash off the grime of the day and set up camp.
Unbeknownst to us the offical camp spot is up above the beach on the next headland. A tribe of partiers descended in the middle of the night for a mini bush doof which was hilarious but a spattering of rain had them running for their beds not too late into the night.
Part 5: Mowarry beach to Boyds Tower.
With just 7 or 8km of walking left we could have had a lazy morning but we were also keen to get the 30km ride back to the cars knocked over before the day got too hot so we were up early for a brekkie with a view then hit the trail
Up over the headland it was a short walk to leatherjacket bay. Leatherjacket bay must be the easiest to reach drive in secluded spot. It was littered with fast food rubbish and toilet paper. Why people would do that to such a beautiful spot is beyond me.
And up the next rise we catch our first glimpse of Boyds Tower
But the walk wasn’t done yet.
and there you have it. Boyds Tower.
Boyds Tower is an unfinished light house created by Ben Boyd. a character once respected for his early settlement down here but recently being cancelled due to him being one of Australia’s most infamous “Blackbirders”
Blackbirders imported cheap labour. Boyd had “recruited” labour from various pacific islands and shipped them to Australia. By the time he got them to Australia though the union movement, religious groups and city based politicians saw it for what it was, low key slavery, and basically outlawed the practice.
Those already at work on Boyds lands down tools and demanded to be sent home.
Find your own way home said Boyd. Many of those brought out found themselves stranded in Sydney with no way to get home…..
All that said his biographer claims he was considerably less racist and cruel than many of the politicians who had publicly condemned him.
Anyhoo, We reach the tower and the end of our walk. We woof down some food, swap backpacks for bikes and ride through the centre of the park, down Duckhole road back to the car.
It’s 30km on what my mate Bernard would refer to “gently undulating” dirt roads. At times the bull dust is so soft it feel’s like you are riding with flat tyres and there’s a few pinches to make sure the legs are still burning but it’s not a bad ride.
Kylie’s fairly new to mountain biking and injury has kept her off the bike for a bit so when we reach the junction with Green Cape light house road I offer to forge ahead and bring the car back to pick her up where ever she gets to.
There’s some fun and fast down hill sections here but also a couple of steepish pinches. It’s the stiff ocean breeze smacking you in the face in the last 2km that hurts the legs the most though.
I get to the car, quickly get changed and drive back up the road, Kylie’s not that far behind. It’s only a couple of kilometres to the end, isn’t it. asks she
Yep, says I. You want to finish it off don’t you?
She grins and pedals on…
All up 36+Km of walking and 30Km ride in 2 days. Not a bad effort.
Our review.
The Grade:
National Parks grade the walk a 4. “Grade 4: Bushwalking experience recommended. Tracks may be long, rough and very steep. Directional signage may be limited.”
Other than the length and a few short sections where you need to pick your way along the beach or over rocky outcrops I’m not sure how it’s 4. it’s fairly flat. I guess the recent upgrades have included adding stairs to any of the steeper sections so maybe before the upgrades….
Would I recommend it?
Sure. it’s definitely worth doing. The views are amazeballs
If your idea of bushwalking is well maintained and sign posted touristy type trails and you want to try something a bit longer or want to try your first overnight walk with the advantage of maintained camp sites this would be perfect.
Would I do it again?
TBH. I wouldn’t bother with the bit between Bittangabee bay and Green Cape Lighthouse again unless I was adding more time and doing side trips out to things like Pulpit rock and checking out the little bays.
Access: A nice walk along fire trail up a gentle gully. Short section of dirt road to car park.
It is a dog friendly walk but is popular with families so please keep your pooches under control and clean up their poo.
Navigation: Navigation is straight forward
Time: 30min out. 30min back
Waterworks gully is a pleasant walk up the gully beside Farmers Creek. There are a few creek crossings to navigate. With a bit of care and finesse you can keep your feet dry at normal water levels but if the creek is full expect wet shoes.
Getting there:
Follow Bells rd all the way to the end and continue onto the dirt road.
You can park
1. On a cleared area to the right just after the tar ends as per Ida Falls
2. A bit further on at the water treatment plant (don’t block the access gates)
3. Further past the treatment plant if you don’t mind a few puddles and rougher road.
The walk follows the road as it winds its way up the gully to Dam 1
Contrary some non local belief, Dam 1 is the lower dam. It was built in 1896 and is no longer used to store water.
The gully bellow the dam is flanked by towering cliff lines, occasionally defaced with graffiti, some historic some less so.
The cliffs on the right are undercut in places and a bit of exploration will show the remains of old humpy’s used by the workers and the remains of the foundation of the foreman’s cottage.
Eagle eyed folk might even spot the infamous T Lawson rock
This has been a source of mystery to generations of locals with wild rumours about satanism, Masonic rituals and even it being a memorial to a horse.
However some sleuthing by this Author and others seems to have solved the puzzle.
For those more adventurous souls there are plenty of side gully’s, most of which give access the the tops, to explore and it is possible to go passed the dam wall and continue up the the base of dam 2
Return: The way you came in
Note: The great outdoors is an ever changing place. Bush fires, changing weather, vegetation growth and forestry activities can all effect the trail conditions and thus the difficulty of the walk. These are a rough guide only and are by no means meant to be a definitive guide . They do not replace the need adequate map reading and navigational skills
Note 1: Taking care While reasonably well known these spots are still wild places and care needs to be taken around cliff edges and on the steep trails. Carrying the right gear as well as having adequate food, water and clothing is important. Always tell someone where you are going and when you expect to get back. Emergency beckons (PLBs) can be hired from Katoomba Police for very little.
Note 2:First aid A basic first aid kit is essential bit of kit whenever heading into the Aussie bush. A basic first aid is highly recommended
Note 3: Maps and Navigation Having the right map, a compass and knowing how to read them is very important when heading into the bush. If you are new to bush walking joining a club or accompanying more experienced walker for you first few outing is a very good idea. I found practicing map reading on well defined trails was helpful when I started out. The Maps mentioned are the 1:25000 series. They can be purchase at Lithgow tourism information center, from outdoors shops or online for around $10 each. Note 4: These are wild and beautiful places, respect them. If you are able to carry something in you can carry it out. Don’ be a tosser. Leaving your rubbish behind is a sure way to ruin it for every one else.
sleepwhenwearedead 