Arthurs Canyon

Gadget and me

When Surveyor General Mitchell was making his map of NSW he asked his surveyors to, where possible, use the traditional place names.

(When he wasn’t naming stuff after Macquarie, that is)

His map had the northern branch of this creek system marked as Bungleboori Creek. Clew’s 1930’s Military Survey had the branchs labled “Bungleboori 9 mile” and “Bungleboori 12 mile”. They later became known as Bungleboori North and Bungleboori South.

This suggests it was a mistake when the Geograffic Naming Board renamed the Northern Branch to the rather less evocative “Dingo” Creek.

While tame camp dogs were called Dinggu by the Dharug people of the upper mountains, and thats where we get the term Dingo, wild dogs would have been more commonly called Warragal by the Dharug and Wiradjuri.

The Gundungurra may have used that term too. So why Dingo Creek?

Anyhoo that is nether here nor there as we are headed for the southern branch, now officially “The”
Bungleboori creek.

This was a very last mintue decision. After a couple of hectic weeks we opted for (what we thought woud be) a slightly less committing trip.

I hadn’t done Arthurs before, nor Hailstorm Retreat for that matter, and Kylie hadn’t done many canyons in this section of the Bungleboori at all.

We had a quick puruse the the maps the night before and decided that was the plan.

A smiling couple wearing outdoor gear stands in front of a Blue Mountains National Park sign amidst a wet, forested area.
the bright eyed anticipation of adventure

The road out to Waratah ridge is rough as guts at the moment. It’s the roughest I’ve seen it since the 2002 fires. If you are heading out that way a car with high clearance is recommended.

the wild flowers though…

We head up the usual track but soon spear off on a side trail.

A person walking down a rocky trail surrounded by green shrubs and tall trees under a cloudy sky.

I was expecting an old 4WD trail out to views and this matched my expectation though the trail looked more well used than I thought it would be.

And there I was blindly following the trail down into a gully when Kylie called, Hey this isn’t right. We should still be on a ridge.

She has an uncanny ability to map out a route and picture it in her head.

We stop to look at the map. This was our first time using lidar overlays, courtesy of Rob’s Maps, they are an awesome tool. Thanks Rob H for creating such a wonderful resource.

Yep! we shoud be on the ridge and, if anything, dropping off the other side. We debate heading back up the trail or dive off and traverse across.

If we traverse the topoline aroud the top of that gully it’s only 150m across and half the elevation. Argue I.

Gadget reluctantly agrees, loath to dive into the scrub this early on what is sure to be a scrub bash.

But I’m the the scrub master, usually. Little did I know.

Back on course we follow the ridge until near the end then opted to descend a creek line. I’d read the gully wasn’t too bad….

Let’s just say we should have got out of the creek line early and looked for a nose. The scrub along the creek was horrendous. Anyone who has been on one of my infamous scrubbashes knows that’s a big call.

It was a relief when we popped out of the bushes onto a very pretty section of Paddys…. I mean the Bungleboori.

then, steadfastly avoiding anything that slightly resembled a creek line, we pop up the nose on the other side and with a couple of short scrambles break the first major cliff line suprisingly easily. We traverse down to cross a creek line then, again easily up the nose to break through the upper cliff even easier. Its rare I find the up 10x easier than the down whch just goes to show how bad the scrub in the creek was.

We are now at the base of the Mini Arthurs.

We have a decision. Gadget had mapped out a route that skirted around the outcrops and dropped into the creek closer to where Arthurs was meant to drop into a canyon however that meant missing weaving through the maze of the Arthurs themselves and potentially missing the upper section.

We weave up through the Arthurs and into another scrubby creek.

This one isn’t as scrubby as the previous (yet) and we soon reach a scramble into a very tight slot. Its jammed full of sticks but I clear them out as I work my way in. 1 very tight squeeze and it opens back up. Just downstream it drops into another short squeeze to what looks to be an abseil but this is so jammed full of debris we were forced to retreat up and around the next side gully.

And here’s where the scrub decided to step up a notch or ten.

On a scale of 1 to 10 how bad was it?

to use a 30 year old meme

A character from an anime with the text 'Over 9000!' displayed prominently. The character has spiky black hair and is wearing a blue and yellow battle uniform.

Holy cutty spikie grabby shit fight batman.

At times I couldn’t even tell if we were in the creek or on the bank or what. Even heading up the slope onto what should have been a spur between two creek lines offered no relief.

Finally we came to a spot where the creek bagan to drop through boulders. and a slot of sorts openned before us.

It’s not much to look at so far.

A person stands beneath a rocky overhang in a lush forest, surrounded by moss-covered stones and foliage.

but just downstream we are surprised

A hiker scaling a moss-covered rock in a lush, green canyon while using a rope for support. The scene is surrounded by ferns and a small stream flows nearby.

The creek twists down through a pretty waterfall into a stunning chamber.

A climber navigating a narrow passage between towering rock walls in a canyon, using a rope for support.
©Kylie
A person sitting on a rock in a narrow canyon, surrounded by moss-covered boulders and ferns, with a small stream flowing through the rocky terrain.
A narrow gorge surrounded by tall rock walls covered in ferns and moss, with a small stream flowing through the bottom.
©Kylie

and this leads to a dark tunnel like section.

With care the pools could be avoided but by this stage Kylie had no cares left to give and opted to frolick in all of them with reckless abandon.

And just like that it opens up.

Kylie didn’t agree with me but I did say if that canyon section was in the middle of Claustral it would be the nicest 20metres of Claustral. Maybe the 5hrs of dense scrub bashing had me delusional but certainly not delutional enough to ever want to come back. Arthurs is defiately a oncer.

OK, “best bit of Claustral” is probaby a stretch. Maybe Grand. If it was in the middle of Grand it would be the best 20 meters of Grand.

But we still had more dense scrub to bash through down to the junction with the ‘Boori. then a further engery zapping boulder hop down to where we would camp for the night.

A campsite by a creek, featuring a yellow tent, a person standing nearby, and clothes hanging on a line in the background surrounded by trees.
©Kylie

We got the tarp set up just as the storm hit. And hit it did.

As my mate Russ would say it pissed it down.

Interestingly the creek didn’t rise that much with the storm but come morning we watched it rise about 50mm in 20min while we ate breakfast. The lag effects of water running down tributaries and soaking through the ground was cool to see.

We were pretty beat up from the previous day (and hadn’t done any big trips recently so a little off our canyoning game fitness) The temperture had also dropped over night, I think we had forgotten how cold the ground stayed at this time of year and only bringing our summer kit was optimistic. So we opted to have a lazy start then exit out rather than forging through another day and camping again.

From our camp down to our exit the Bungleboori was much more forgiving. Boulder scrambles were mostly avoided with easy walking on the banks and the couple of deep wades actually felt good as the water took the load of our packs.

A man and woman smiling for a selfie in a lush green forest, with ferns and trees surrounding them.
Smiling again. for now

and then it was up.

Steeply up.

Scrubby up.

And into Hailstorm retreat.

A narrow rocky pathway flanked by tall, moss-covered stone walls and lush green foliage on both sides.

Doesn’t look like much to start but its a pleasant slot that carves all the way to the top of the upper cliff line.

And from there its a relatively easy stroll over the tops to the Waratah ridge track and the monotonous trudge back along the fire trail.

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GLOUCESTER

24/01/2026

Jason, Dave, Wisey, Kylie and Me

Dr Forster went to Gloucester in a shower of rain.

He stepped in a puddle right up to his middle

and never went there again.

Ah English, where Forster rhymes with Gloucester and neither sounds like how they are spelt.

Anyhoo

What better way to pop my Barrington cherry than with a run through the upper section of Gloucester canyon.

Jason and Kylie had done it numerous times before at much higher water levels so today was shaping up to be fairy chill.

We had met Jason and Dave at camp the night before.

H had rolled in sometime through the night and we were all up early and eager.

It’s a short walk in and in high spirits we suit up and make our way down to the first abseil.

Kylie sets the rope and H leads the first drop
Jasons declares ropes are for the vanquished and jumps from a slippery stance
Kylie handling the rope duties ©Dave
The next one is fairly basic down beside a smaller fall

A short hop skip and a jump down stream and we arrive at what we are here for.

The Famous chock stone abseil.

But to get there requires a short abseil and traverse

On their previous trips the water levels had been too high to attempt this one and there is the option to scramble out and do a dry line from high up just down stream of the chock stones.

Conditions today however are perfect so Jason sets a line and I traverse out and set the main drop

Jason follows me out and leads the big one

There are two redirects in place on this drop. The first gets you out, away from a sloping ledge that forms just as the water funnels into a ferocious torrent, the second keeps you out of the hydraulic that forms in high flow at the base. Jason sets them both for us to follow

Me at the second redirect ©Dave

it’s a stunningly beautiful waterfall.

And the view back up to it from just downstream is iconic

There was a bit of horsing around

It was still early in the day. We were tossing up the idea of continuing downstream and completing the lower section. Jason had done it before and thought it was interesting.

The other option was to play around here.

It would be cool to get on top of the chock stone say Wisey.

There is the dry line option, said some one.

We scrmble up the start of the exit track and find our way across to the dry line.

It’s a bit down stream of the chock stones but I manage to swing across to the upper stone to help the following party with a stuck rope (Notes say to throw the pull cord over the chockstone. This lead to the stuck rope. If the flow isn’t too high just bring the pull strand down with you. it pulls fine.)

then drop in.

Jas, Wisey and Dave follow me. It’s a surprisingly fun abseil and we opt to run repeat son it for funzies.

©Jason

Then we head on out and enjoy a relaxing afternoon at Camp

Horse sense is the thing a horse has which keeps it from betting on people: WC Fields

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Kosciuszko 2025

We were keen as mustard to give the new Alucab camper a proper test out and as luck would have it Kylie had organised a long weekend of adventures in and around Long Plain, Kosciuszko NP.

Rocking into Cooleman camp late Friday night it was so good to just pop the top and be able to crawl into bed

A near full moon blazed out potential milky way or comet shots.

We get a good night sleep but are up early for what would become and epic adventure in Landers Falls.

©Hywaida
There is something about sitting around a camp fire debriefing a big day
Sunday we got a sleep in and take advantage of sunrise in the Alucab

Then it was off to Clark Gorge for a more touristy micro adventure.

before returning to camp to chill out and dry off

not sure what’s that’s about

And we round the trip off with a slightly less cold dip in the Yarrangobilly thermal pool

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Light to Light walk

28-12-2024

Gadget and meeeeeeee

The south coast of NSW is one of Kylie’s favourite places and I can easily see why. The colours of the dramatic coast line are mesmerising, the escarpments are grand and as a bonus the mountain biking is truly awesome.

With a bit of leave over Christmas I thought I’d be mad not to join her on a road trip.

One of our goals would be to squeeze in this popular multiday walk.

The Light to Light stretches between Boyds Tower and the Green Cape Light house in Beowa National Park, south of Eden. Being about 30km it’s doable in a day but most people do it over 3 days, making use of the offical camps sites at Saltwater Creek and Bittangabee bay (these are drive in campsites with showers and toilets so bookings are essential in peek times.)

We wanted to enjoy the beaches and scenery so decided to do it as a 2 day trip. As we had the mountain bikes we opted to forgo the pick up and drop off logistics (You can pay for a shuttle service at approx $120 per person) and made use of the bikes for the return journey.

Boyds Tower appears to be the usual start to the walk but looking at the topography of the forestry roads we figured it might be an easier ride North to South so we stashed the bikes in the bush near Boyds Tower and drove down to Green Cape to start the walk from there.

Along the way we did a side trip into Saltwater Camp to stash some extra water.

Part 1: Green Cape Light house to Bittangabee Bay

Full of beans and anticipation we set off at the crack of 10am in high spirits. It is a stunning bit of coast down here which is why I’m a bit baffled as to why this section of trail stubbornly avoids it.

TBH, this was my least favourite section of the walk. We could hear the ocean, we could occasionally see the ocean but without large side trips we couldn’t see the coast line.

We wander through tunnels of mallee scrub and across open plateau, it’s like the trail is trying to avoid any elevation loss or gain for the sake of it and at one stage I find myself thinking, I hope I haven’t driven 5hrs for 30km of this shit.

Gadget with the Light house off in the distance

Coming from the other way I can’t help but think this would be a disappointing end to the walk and you’d only be doing it for the sake of doing it and getting to the Light House.

NPs are doing a lot of upgrade work on the trail so perhaps this is a temporary diversion but it doesn’t look temporary.

Luckily the plethora of goannas and bird life were a distraction from the flat boring trudge.

8kms in Bittangabee bay was a welcome site.

Part 2: Bittangabee bay to Hegarty’s bay

NP were doing upgrade works to the trail around the headland so we were diverted in through the camp. It was packed. A sign near the toilet block directed us back on to the trail on the other side but, confusingly a few hundred meters along we came to a barricade and signage preventing people from accessing that section from the other direction.

Anyhoo, We make the short side trip down to the surprisingly people-less bay for a swim and a bit of lunch. We also got lucky as the grey clouds dispersed and the sun brought the colours out. Even if you are not doing the walk or camping for the night a visit to Bittangabee Bay is well worth it if you are down this way.

From here the trail does a wide arc around Bittangabee with view after view of the stunning bay.

Beautiful from any angle.

We are now following the coast line with just the occasional diversion inland.

This is what we were here for
Looking back down the coast with the light house in the distance
Looking up the coast with stunning cliff lines jutting out over the South Pacific Ocean
And stunning geology with folds and intrusions and flows and stuff
And giant goannas decorated in moss

If Bittangabee bay was stunning, and it was, Hegartys bay is beyond words

Once a publicised walk in camp it’s now officially closed for camping. Again NPs were doing work on the trail here, this time though we are diverted down on to the rockshelf. This was one of my favourite parts of the walk and it seems nuts they would divert the walk around some of it.

Oh, did I mention the colours?

Part 3: Hegartys bay to Saltwater Creek

Leaving Hegartys the trail swings back onto the plateau, but at least there are views of the coast
Even the bobcat driver got bored and tried to add little sweepy turns.. (actually well designed trail with water run off controlled by small grade reversals at each bend.)
Jacky Dragon (?)

And we stroll into Saltwater creek around 4pm. Again despite the drive in camp being packed the beach was all but empty.

Kylie was getting blisters on her toes so we stop to tape them up while we refill our water bottles.

TBH we’d overestimated how much water we would need. Not knowing if it was going to be baking hot or how much the salt water spray would take out of us we’d packed 3 litres each. I have well over half left when we got to the drop.

We recalculate how much we’d need for the rest of the walk and push on.

Part 4: Saltwater creek to Mowarry beach.

This may explain why so few people were in the water.
follow the yellow brick road… or sumfink

Once again we follow gorgeous coastline where the colours seem too vivid to be real

We come to an open grass headland and assume it’s the Mowarry campground. the kangaroos had it to themselves though.

And continue down to the beach, which the kangaroos also had to themselves.

We are surprised to find a camp spot right next to the beach so take advantage of it.

With some little side trips for swims and views we’d done about 28 or 29km today. For some weird reason flatter walks knock me around more than our usual scampering up and down canyons so I was feeling it. Kylie has sprained her ankle the week before and was suffering a head cold so was just as happy as me to have one more swim to wash off the grime of the day and set up camp.

Unbeknownst to us the offical camp spot is up above the beach on the next headland. A tribe of partiers descended in the middle of the night for a mini bush doof which was hilarious but a spattering of rain had them running for their beds not too late into the night.

Part 5: Mowarry beach to Boyds Tower.

With just 7 or 8km of walking left we could have had a lazy morning but we were also keen to get the 30km ride back to the cars knocked over before the day got too hot so we were up early for a brekkie with a view then hit the trail

Up over the headland it was a short walk to leatherjacket bay. Leatherjacket bay must be the easiest to reach drive in secluded spot. It was littered with fast food rubbish and toilet paper. Why people would do that to such a beautiful spot is beyond me.

And up the next rise we catch our first glimpse of Boyds Tower

But the walk wasn’t done yet.

and there you have it. Boyds Tower.

Boyds Tower is an unfinished light house created by Ben Boyd. a character once respected for his early settlement down here but recently being cancelled due to him being one of Australia’s most infamous “Blackbirders”

Blackbirders imported cheap labour. Boyd had “recruited” labour from various pacific islands and shipped them to Australia. By the time he got them to Australia though the union movement, religious groups and city based politicians saw it for what it was, low key slavery, and basically outlawed the practice.

Those already at work on Boyds lands down tools and demanded to be sent home.

Find your own way home said Boyd. Many of those brought out found themselves stranded in Sydney with no way to get home…..

All that said his biographer claims he was considerably less racist and cruel than many of the politicians who had publicly condemned him.

Anyhoo, We reach the tower and the end of our walk. We woof down some food, swap backpacks for bikes and ride through the centre of the park, down Duckhole road back to the car.

It’s 30km on what my mate Bernard would refer to “gently undulating” dirt roads. At times the bull dust is so soft it feel’s like you are riding with flat tyres and there’s a few pinches to make sure the legs are still burning but it’s not a bad ride.

Kylie’s fairly new to mountain biking and injury has kept her off the bike for a bit so when we reach the junction with Green Cape light house road I offer to forge ahead and bring the car back to pick her up where ever she gets to.

There’s some fun and fast down hill sections here but also a couple of steepish pinches. It’s the stiff ocean breeze smacking you in the face in the last 2km that hurts the legs the most though.

I get to the car, quickly get changed and drive back up the road, Kylie’s not that far behind. It’s only a couple of kilometres to the end, isn’t it. asks she

Yep, says I. You want to finish it off don’t you?

She grins and pedals on…

All up 36+Km of walking and 30Km ride in 2 days. Not a bad effort.

Our review.

The Grade:

National Parks grade the walk a 4. “Grade 4: Bushwalking experience recommended. Tracks may be long, rough and very steep. Directional signage may be limited.”

Other than the length and a few short sections where you need to pick your way along the beach or over rocky outcrops I’m not sure how it’s 4. it’s fairly flat. I guess the recent upgrades have included adding stairs to any of the steeper sections so maybe before the upgrades….

Would I recommend it?

Sure. it’s definitely worth doing. The views are amazeballs

If your idea of bushwalking is well maintained and sign posted touristy type trails and you want to try something a bit longer or want to try your first overnight walk with the advantage of maintained camp sites this would be perfect.

Would I do it again?

TBH. I wouldn’t bother with the bit between Bittangabee bay and Green Cape Lighthouse again unless I was adding more time and doing side trips out to things like Pulpit rock and checking out the little bays.

The rest of it? Yeah probably. At least in parts.

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