When Russ said he was in town and keen for a catch up but we both had limitted time we thought a run through this little beauty would be just the ticket and Jason was hell keen too.
It had been nearly 2 years since we first went searching for it and our group was far from the only ones to be inspired by Richard Pattison’s youtube video. Since then it’s be come fairly popular and a track has begun forming through the previously thick scrub. Still we opted for a bit of a scrub bash.
It takes us next to no time to get to the first little abseil.
We slide down this and take what looks to be an obvisous path along a ledge to the left to avoid the next little drop.
Pro tip. Don’t take the obvious ledge to the left. It is muddy, slippery and it’s just causing damage. There’s a much better path to the right of the boulder in the centre of the creek. From above it looks like a drop but when you get to it you’ll see its an easy step down.
And just like that we are at the top of the drop into the impressive slot.
It’s a lot higher than I remember. Belatedly I am glad we opted to throw in 2 30m ropes “just in case.”
It’s a lot wetter than last time too, which was nice
Russ on rope the 30m ropes just reach aross the pool at the bottom.
A bit of careful foot work see us stay dry above the thighs.
A small down climb brings us to the next abseil with some interesting anchor set up… Last time this was prefect candidate for the fiddle stick. Now sling and rope are in place around the boulder. Make sure you double check these carefully.
The trail out to the Sphinx was longer but far less steep than what we did yesterday to the Pyramid summit but the day was meant to be even hotter so we got an early start.
The trail winds it’s way up a gentle ridge and there is plenty to explore just off track
I’t a tad over 3.5km out to the Sphinx, gentle uphill most of the way.
Given the weather forecast of heat heat and more heat we opted not to do the side trip to the top of the castle.
The Sphinx
More like Darth Vader or Batman if you ask me
A short skip further down the trail gets you to turtle rock. The track ends here and you could scramble up but, again with the day heating up, we just have morning tea then head back to camp.
By the time we get back we’ve worked up a sweat and decide it’s a good time to visit an underground creek.
From Booboo Booboo we do a bit of a down and around, crossing the boarder into Qld and into Girraween.
Bald Rock and Girraween are not that far apart as the crow flys, but we aren’t crows and the road needs to circle around the mountainous country in between.
We roll into an almost empty camp ground, the Christmas/New years crowd have dispersed. Just about everyone else we see here we saw at Boonboo Boonoo. Haha
We have a couple of nights here and planned to smash out as much as possible. but the heat was oppressive so we cut our list of things to do from “Everything all at once” to our “must sees” and worked out a bit of a plan for best time of day to see the things. In between we do something rare for us. We chill out and enjoy the camp ground.
and with views like these out the back of the camper why wouldn’t you
The neighbours were amusing. Knobbie the dragon was preaching the virtues of sun baking. Maggie Pie seemed very engrossed in the topic.
We thought we’d start our stay with a quick walk up to the Granite arch.
An nice easy walk lead us past serval granite outcrops up to this beauty.
On our way to Bald Rock we had stopped at “Thunderbolt’s hideout.” and joked at the time that if we didn’t stop on the way in we wouldn’t stop on the way back as we’d be sick of looking at Granite tors and boulders .
Narrator: Neither Craig nor Kylie got sick of looking at granite tors or boulders.
Just adjusting the placement for a better composition
A big storm role din with lots of thunder and lightning so we dashed back to camp.
Knobby Dragon. I think. Could be a Jacky Dragon. I aint know. I’m not a dragon tamer.
The storm passed over without rain and the sky cleared so we thought a late afternoon walk up the Pyramid would be just the ticket.
It’s about 2km from the campground to the summit, so not a big walk.
But it’s steep.
While not the steepest signposted tourist track we’ve been up (I’d probably give that to the Red Track at Bungonia) added to the steepness is the exposure.
Grippy shoes and dry weather is a must for this one. Once the rock is wet you’d have more grip on an ice skating rink.
The first part is along a clear easy path. This leads to some stairs. They lead to a big granite slab. White dots lead the easiest path up. All good so far
Then you scramble up this rocky chute, referred to as the pyramid passage.
Then comes the traverse.
You make your way out, angling up. To the right the granite slab towers above. To your left a steep slope dropping off to nothing but air.
It’s terrifying but worth it. Say a couple coming back down.
(Belatedly, on the way down, we find there is a less terrifying option of veering right and around the back side of the boulders above)
Past traverse its another little scramble before you round a corner to views of the infamous balancing rocks, defying gravity (for the meantime) right on the edge of the dome.
Breath taking in the soft afternoon light of sunset
The view across to the second “Pyramid” and equally impressive granite dome.
If you close both eyes and try really hard to imagine a pyramid it looks just like a pyramid.
The aboriginal name for these peaks seems to have been Terrawambella. Early pastoralists mapped them as “the domes” at some point they became known as the Pyramids.
With the sun sitting low in the west the light was magical and we had the views all to ourselves.
Well, us and Mr Cunningham.
I only recently learnt that Cunningham skinks have the ability to change their colour a bit, sort of like a chameleon, to help blend into the background.
Once back down off the dome we veer off track to check out other balancing rocks and views
Gadget and The Great Pyramid of Girraween
It’s been a good day. We have punched out a couple of short but steep walks. Basketswamp Falls, the Granite Arch and the Pyramid.
We get back to camp as another storm rolls through. The temperature was due to ramp up again tomorrow so we plan an early morning trek out to the Sphinx
But not before a bit of late night herping
it was a frogathon but I forgot to charge my head torch so had to call it before the snakes came looking for diner.
Finishing up our coastal sojourn we head west. Our plan was to come back down the western line.
As usual we had planned to pack a fair bit in to a short time.
The Western line probably isn’t in the forefront of most peoples minds as a summer trip. We are not most people
Are we crazy? asks one of us
Yeah. says the other as if it was the most obvious answer in the history of obvious answers.
The fact was summer was when we both had time off so…
Our first destination was Bald Rock.
I’d never heard of it but Kylie said it was something she really wanted to see.
It’s right on the Qld border and part of the New England Granite belt, which was formed about 250million years ago. It’s called the New England granite belt because, you know, nothing resembles Old England more than goannas running across massive granite domes…
Anyhoo
We pull into the car park and cook up a breakfast then make our way up to the trailhead.
There are several walk options, from super short to all day. We opt for the summit walk.
A reasonably short walk leads us to the base of the massive granite dome. This point is wheel chair accessible and if its as far as you get it still bloody impressive.
A mountain of granite towers above.
White reflectors stuck on the rock were the only indicators of a path up.
Of course we follow them. Mostly
It was steep.
Jokes
It’s a little steep but not *that* steep
It’s a short, punchy walk up to the summit and it was spectacular.
Rising 260m above the surrounding terrain, Bald Rock is the largest granite monolith in Australia and the colours are amazing, even on an overcast morning.
as it levels out we pass a few boulders and suddenly this view bursts into view
There is something humbling about big terrain. Human trivialities seem… Trivial
These guys were everywhere and they were curious but they were friendly enough. The bee not the warn out merrells.
We share the summit with several other groups. Families, grey nomads and, us. (There is a song in there somewhere)
We return to the car and back track a little to our camp site in Boonoo Boonoo.
Ash wanted to head to Surface Paradise so we thought it might be nice to drop him off for a day out and drive up to check out a couple of the touristy waterfalls on Tamborine Mountain.
We knew Jason was up visiting family in Brisbane so we threw him a shout out to meet us there.
Our first stop was Cedar Creek falls.
This is another popular swimming spot and it has limited parking. We needed to park way back at the turn off (Junction of Tambourine Mountain Road and Cedar Creek Falls Road.) which gave us an extra 800m walk each way.
Locals at the end of the road had set up a paid (donation) parking lot in their paddock and the kids had an esky set up sell cold drinks. Kylie half jokingly wondered if said locals rushed out of a morning on public holidays and filled the car park up with their own cars before the crowds appeared. Clever them if so as their paddock was just about full.
And to be fair, imagine having this place pretty much as your private back yard extension before the crowds discovered it and the tourists (like us) rolled in.
From the car park a boardwalk style trail leads you down past a nice picnic area beside the creek then down to a lookout above the main falls.
The trail then continues down to the base of a lower cascade and a nice swimming hole.
There are two main pools accessible from the trail.
A series of other cascades and pools are off limits due to safety concerns and rangers were on and to remind people of the need to comply.
We have a dip and laze about then head back up the mountain to check out Curtis Falls.
There’s a much bigger car park here but it’s equally full, luckily people are leaving and we get a park close to the trail head. Winning.
There is no swimming allowed in this one but is a lovely walk along a shaded creek and a very pretty waterfall.
There’s some great side canyons along the Wollangambe with the most popular ones clustered around Mt Wilson.
Of those accessed from the Fire Shed there are a couple of outliers that get less traffic due to being a little harder to get too.
Whirlpool canyon is one of these.
Expecting a stinking hot day and a long scrubby walk in we meet early and head off.
The others had obtained a GPS trace of the entry, I had my usual plotted way point for the canyon start and sometimes/usaul/mostly wackily off gut feel…
Banter made the walk in pass in a flash, well not really but it was surprisingly simple, even if I did get completely turned around at one point, thankfully Clare and Kylie kept us on track. Though when H suggested we try a short cut I was all in.
It was also relatively scrub free(ish)
Slipping down H’s side gully hoping to cut off a fair bit of the GPS trace.
And soon we find ourself at the start of the canyon.
We weren’t expecting much out of this one but a short abseil gets us into a surprisingly nice slot.
Kylie sussing out the first abseil
There was some interesting anchor set ups and a couple of the abseils have very tricky starts. This problem solving aspect is part of what I really enjoy about canyoning.
Don’t get my wrong, on popular trips where hordes of foot steps compact tree roots and pulling rope after rope wears grooves in the rock well placed bolts are a Good Thing (TM) but they do take something away from the overall experience of problem solving. That’s probably not a major draw for most, but for me it’s a big part of it.
Anyhoo that’s off topic.
Back in the land of dodgy anchors, we check each one carefully (as you should every time). Replace what needs to be replaced and carefully consider the remnant dodginess
Before lone you could feel the warmth chimneying up from the ‘Gambe
H leads the way down the last abseil and soon we reach the Junction with the Wollangambe
But the day is not over. Our exit is about a kilometre and half downstream.
Having pretty much traced this enigmatic river from its source at Clarence to below Mt Irvine on various trips over the years I reckon this bit is the most stunning section of the ‘Game
Deep walls and beautiful pools.
That’s said it’s not easy going with deep sand and boulder hoping between long swims zapping your energy after an already longish day .
Having less foot traffic it’s also a lot slipperier in spots.
Just before our exit we catch a group from the central coast who had completed Geronimo.
We chat at the exit, cooling off at the sandy beach before making our way back up to the shed.
All in all a thoroughly enjoyable day but it was also a long day for a shortish canyon so I wouldn’t rush back to repeat the trip.
Whirlpool itself was nice and as stated it’s a beautiful section of the Wollangambe so worth doing at least once.
Popeye creek pops in and out of canyon sections along much of its course and it’s one I’d not done before.
A big Saturday trip had been foiled by thunderstorms and we just needed to shake out the cobwebs but couldn’t be arsed repacking ropes and stuff so thought why not have a look at some non abseil sections in Popeye.
Meeting at the crack of 10am, or there abouts we make our way in in no time.
We’d be entering the canyon a long way upstream of where the jamieson guide recommends but not too far from the increasingly popular Popeye falls.
The creek cuts a deep, promising looking cleft in the sandstone.
A short section of narrow u bends hide a pleasant little canyon.
There’s a bit of bridging to stay dry above the knees. But the water is a pleasant temp anyway
Not the figure 8 pool
It is very pretty.
Parts very similar to the Dumbano tunnels.
We are already impressed. the canyon opens up a bit and Waratahs line the banks.
Waratahs along a spur off Waratah ridge? Who would have thunk it
And soon we come to the falls.
Most visitors to here avoid the canyon bit and keep their feet dry by scrambling down the nose.
It’s a funky little waterfall through an arch in a side creek
We phaff about with photos for a bit, we have to pool all to ourselves., but then push on downstream to the next canyon section.
A bit wider and deeper it’s a nice walk through section
It’s nice
Again the canyon opens out. We believe it’s a 1km scrub bash down to the next bit so, happy with our easy day, we retrace our steps back up to the waterfall. A crowd of people are here now.
There’s an easier way in, says old mate sucking in a vape.
We came that way, replies Ellie very politely. We just had a look at some other stuff while out here.
We leave the guards and scramble out into the cliff top for lunch.
Access: Easy access to the start of the trail. Dirt roads but well maintained at time of writing
Navigation: Navigation is fairly straight forward. Signposted tourist trails
Map: Lithgow
Time: There’s various options but give yourself a couple of hours
The name is inspired by the resemblance of the spectacular towering pagodas to some fabled lost city, The lost city has been a well known favourite to 4WDers, rock climbers and avid bushwalkers for years but recent works by NPWS has improve accessibility and the area now has a family friendly loop.
While not as shady or rainforesty as the Grand Canyon loop at Blackheath it more than make up for it with towering cliffscapes and industrial heritage
Getting there:
There are a couple of options of where to start, The Northern Lookout (Traditionally more well known) and the Southern Lookout (up until recently more of a local secret.)
Drive out of Lithgow via Atkinson Street and continue up State Mine Gully Road.
(Halfway up the steep hill (Dobbs Drift) there is a parking area on the left and it’s worth a stopping for a quick side trip to have a look here.)
Drive to the top of the hill. The first turn on the left as it flattens out will take you to the southern car park.
Alternatively continue along and onto Glowworm tunnel road. Take the left fork at the Bungleboori Picnic ground, then left again. this will take you to the Northern car park.
Suggested Walks.
Easy 1: Start at the Southern Lookout and enjoy the expansive views over toward the lost city. Follow the main trail down to Marrangaroo creek then return the way you came.
Easy 2: Start at the Northern Lookout and enjoy wandering through the amazing pagodas. Follow the trail down Marrangaroo Creek then return the same way.
Through Walk: Do a car shuffle and walk between the 2 lookouts. I’d suggest starting at the Northern Lookout and walk to the southern lookout via the main trail.
Southern Loop: If you don’t want to do a car shuffle but want a loop rather than an out and back I’d suggest starting at the Southern Lookout. Descend via the miners track then come up the main trail. This provides views over some old mining heritage and takes in a nice waterfall (best after a bit of rain) then a more gentle climb out along the gorgeous Marrangaroo Creek.
The Full Box and dice: If you want to take it all in I’d suggest parking at the Northern Lookout. Walk down and up to the Southern lookout via the main trail then descend the miners track back to Marrangaroo creek and hence back to the Northern Lookout not the main trail.
Of course if you don’t wish to tackle the stairs it’s worth just visiting the lookouts.
From Hokitika it was an early start to drive down for our next adventure.
When planning our itinerary Kylie had mentioned a walk up towards the base of a glacier she had previously done and loved and while we had been trying to keep it a low cost holiday we had also been tossing up splurging on helicopter tour.
I remembered my old mate and mentor, Rusty (RIP) having done a heli/hike tour onto a glacier and raving about it.
If we do the helicopter I’d love a snow or glacier landing, Say I.
That’s a great idea Kylie replies.
We begin looking into options trying to decide what would fit our wants and itinerary. Franz Josef Glacier Guides started looming large as the front runner.
This is the one part of our holiday where we decided to dam the expense and splash a bit of cash on. IMO it was worth every cent.
Just driving into town is mind-blowing as we get our first close encounter with the snowcapped peaks while walking down streets lined with giant fern trees.
While FJGG supply all the outer layers to keep their clients warm they were more than happy for us to use our own gear (after confirming that it was suitable).
Our guide, Maya, was informative, funny and chill as she took us through the safety talk. That’s worst case, says she. It won’t happen today… I hope. Na, it won’t happen.
Suitably prepared we leave town via a lovely walk through the rain forest to the helipad. The group would be split into 2. And our group were first up with Maya joining us and our chopper pilot Matt giving great commentary along the way.
We had been assigned seating and Kylie had jagged a front seat, allowing her to capture some amazing videos.
Even with Matt’s commentary it was hard to come to grips with the scale of this place. It wasn’t until we were down and looking back to the following helicopter that was just a tiny speck against the mountainous back drop that it started sinking in.
Once both groups were on the ice Maya guided us on a 2.5hr loop around the glacier with lots of facts, anecdotes, and Maori legends thrown in.
Kylie was in her element, engaging in her specialities of climate science, glacial processes, and paleo-river systems. Her smile was beaming and her eyes sparkling.
It was a great experience and I’d highly recommend it.
We had jagged a perfect bluebird day. Summer is their peak season but a clear winter’s day is the perfect time to visit.
Anyhoo, we took about a thousand photos between us. Here are some of my favourite ones of mine.
Click to expand
Canyon anyone?We are standing on a glacier looking at a beach!!!
Standing on a Glacier looking at a sunset over a beach!!!
Would 100% do it again
And on an absolute high from this we cruise down to Bruce Bay for camp
