We all know prusiking sucks.

I’ve been a bit lax in practicing it the last few years but I did a training day with UBMBWC where Guy Wittig showed us a slightly different set up that made things much easier and quicker.

Lo and behold last weekend on a trip  we had a rope get stuck. It was the first time I’ve ever been in the situation where we needed to prusik back up to free a rope and every one was volunteering to be the one to go up but I jumped in “i’ll show youse an easy way…”

Only then I had a brain block and stuffed it up and while I was trying to work out the set up Ev jumped on the rope and up she went using the standard technique.

Anyhoo. as soon as Ev gets back down the light bulb goes on and I realise the simple thing I was forgetting. So today I spent a bit of time in the shed practicing with Tal and I thought I’d put together a quick video to share.

To some of you it is probably a well known technique and self explanitory but it’s new for me.

On my waist I’m using my usual descender in ascent mode, it’s a Kong Robot which is just an older version of the hydrabot and IMO still superior to the newer design in a couple of ways. … p269-robot

For the training day Guy was using a Mirco-traxion instead,,

In the video I also mention you can set an figure 8 up in ascent mode and I’ll post a link below to show how that is set up and I’d imagine the same set up would work on crittrs, Piranas, Okas etc but suggest you try it out and practice it in safe situation before attempting to ascend a 30m overhang on it.

You could probably also use a couple of carabiners and a garda hitch, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

Up top I’m using a tibloc, for a single rope ascent and a standard prusik knot on the double rope.

I should say this isn’t meant to replace proper training with a capable trainer so as I said above practice it in a safe, controlled environment before taking it out into the real world

Even in the video you can see me having to think about what to do so practice practice practice until it becomes natural.

Oh, I also mis-pronouce everything from prusik to tibloc to microtraxion……

Maybe I do it on purpose to annoy the pedants or more probably I’m an uneducated bogan…. Aye.


OK I’ve just scoured the net for a vid on setting up the 8 as an auto locking ascender and this is the best video I’ve been able to find. I’m positive there are better ones out there but I couldn’t find them and TBH I didn’t look that hard


Glen Davis revisited


Dick, Madie, Edwin, Ethan, Autal, Marchelle, Slava, and most importantly Ev.


Oh and me.

With tight schedules we managed to get in another trip into the Capertee valley to visit  A classic Glen Davis slot. This time we’d forego the climbing route for the quicker “Scrambling” route.

Or atleast that was the plan

The scrambling route has some exposure to it.

Exposure can do funny things to people.


One member of the group, who is a competent climber and who shall remain nameless, got a bit freaked out and we ended up roping up and belaying anyway.

Ev rocketted up the snotty chute of snottness (Where I’d had a BLM, Bowel Liquifying Moment, on a trip to a different canyon) and dropped a rope down to assist every one else.

We all got up safely.

It’s easy scrambling but on flakey rock and you are along way up. Nice views but

Ethan on a narrow, sloping ledge High above the Capertee valley with Point Anderson, Canobla gap and Mt Gundangaroo in the distance
Marchelle on the “Non-Climbing” route ©Madie
Madie about to start a hair raising traverse along a ledge that is at times not much more and 6inches wide.
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The wider part of the Ledge
The chute. I’m told there is a way around this but I couldn’t see it. I think maybe if we stayed lower and traverse a bit… maybe

Anyhoo we all make it up and in short time are back to doing what we like to do best. Coming back down.

Autal on the first abseil
Marchelle belaying Slava on Nivana’s Heart Shaped Rock
She is a little shy but with some coaxing we got her to pose…. Madie

And then we were into the slot proper

Autal dropping in ©Ev
Autal on rope



It’s short but oh so grand
I’m becoming a photo nerd and loving the colours


The Coin Slot ©Madie
Wait for meeeeeee.
Oh noes the rope it be stuck

Despite being careful at the top it seems the knot has jammed.

We try backwards and forewardsing it. We try setting a Z line from different angles and it just would not budge

Meat anchored Z-pull to try and get the rope to come down… ©Madie

I stuff around trying to remember how Guy showed me to set up a super quick, efficient way to prusik but failed to remember a key aspect and Ev got sick of my fumbling, pushed me to the side and rigged up the old fashion way. And up she went. 30m of over hanging prusiking , fix the rope and back down in 20min. Top effort.

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Ev prusiking ©Autal
Ev is everyones hero after rescuing the ropes. Thanks Ev, massive effort.

And then we are out into the open for 1 last impressive abseil

Slava beneath some spectacularly coloured cliflines
Ethan on the final abseil ©Edwin Emmerick Photography

And then it was a simple trudge back down to the camp ground. Another enjoyable day in the bush with great company

The cliffs we had scaled and the slot we had descended

Group size: 8 all experienced

Time: 5hr 45min car to car which is only 40min shorter than when we had the big group and did the climbing route which just goes to show large groups can be  quick and efficient….. and, Kent is the consummate  ring leader

Don’t be another flower. Picked for your beauty and left to die. Be wild, difficult to find, and impossible to forget: Erin Van Vuren

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The Gang ©Autal


I have a bit of video but I haven’t looked at it yet. I have some prusiking to practice