Continuing on from Pancake Rocks we cruise down to another one of Kylie’s must see destinations.
Hokitika Gorge.
She had been raving about how mach she loves this place and the amazing colours that pop out and despite the overcast day it did not disappoint.
Another easy tourist walk it is well worth a visit.
From here we headed back into Hokitika for diner at Sunset Point and more glowworms
Saturday dawned clear but heavy rain was predicted to set in late in the day.
Today we would leave the camp gear behind and head to the canyon we came out here for. We navigated our way along the, well you can’t call it a ridge but lets say “convoluted yet connected spur” and down to our target creek, which soon canyoned up.
Many times throughout the day we would, once again reflect on similarities to Carnarvon Gorge and some of the remote slots we had explored well upstream of the usual tourist hikes. Just all rolled into 1. And greener.
We wondered down through remnant Gondwana rainforest, in that moment we were content and complete.
There is not enough superlatives to do it justice.
But the day wasn’t done with us yet. We wound our way through lush coachwoods and ferns to the jaws of another deep and impressive slot.
A ways downstream we refill our water bottles and quit this creek via an easy pass onto another convoluted but connected spur.
just over six and a half hours after we left we make it back to camp and attempt to dry things off a bit while cooking diner before retiring under the tarp just as the storm hits.
We had some canyons planned but it had rained hard all night and was not letting up. The dump was predicted to get heavier through the day cumulating in a thunder storm after lunch. So we opted to retreat down our first spur back to the pretty creek. The flow had definitely increased since yesterday and by the time we waded upstream to the bottom of a canyon that would lead us back up to the fire trail we had walked in on the rain was getting heavier.
Knowing this canyon was deep, narrow and long and still expecting a storm we reluctantly decided to slip up a pass beside it instead. The ridge I was hoping to use to avoid dropping back into the head waters of the canyon proved to be far more complex than the topo map suggested but it eventually got us to the road via another spectacular knife edge.
With empty heads and full souls all that was left to do was to follow the trail back to the car and the long drive home.
At the end of the day, your feet should be dirty, your hair messy, and your eyes sparkling: Shanti
Day 3 would see us back on the tourist trail for the most part. We’d planned to get up to Battleship Spur, nearly 600m above our camp, before the heat of the day. Then check out Boowinda Gorge and it’s side creeks
Both were listed as star attractions. The young couple we had shared camp with came back raving about how beautiful Boowinda Gorge was and a steady stream of people had made their way either up to or down from the spur on their journey along the great walk.
So up we go. The path up to the spur starts up Boowinda gorge but we don’t really take notice as we’re nervously excited about the haul up to the spur.
A side gully acts as a pass out of the gorge. It’s steep, reminiscent of the scramble out of Tigersnake canyon. but once through the lower cliff line a well maintained trail makes it’s way up and along an amazingly varied spur.
Think the Thuratt Spires with a tourist trail…
Wide open grassland alternates with almost razorback spur. Fine white sandstone changes to conglomerate and an out crop what appears to my uneducated eye as quartzite. Speculation around the geology distracts from the slog up.
And the views from the top?
Now back down for lunch in the cool of Boowinda gorge.
Running on a high we start making our way up the gorge.
Think of walking up the Wollemgambe. Only it’s dry as a nuns nasty and instead of sand it’s littered with baby head sized river stones. And the river stones haven’t been tumbled enough to make them smooth so they are jaggered. And they move beneath your feet. And the bigger ones give false hope with 3 or 4 holding firm then the next rolls just to mock your ankles.
Still so many Carnarvon glamour shot are from Boowinda gorge.
We press on.
Several times we consider just turning around but we’re a stubborn couple.
I guess the PC term would be “determined” but it was pure stubbornness (and a view of our white slot at the start we glimpsed from the Spur track) that kept us going.
Finally we get to the junction towards the top of the bloody Boowinda gorge and by some miracle there’s clear running water. Not much but more than we’ve seen in the side creeks since Wards Canyon.
We take the right branch. It’s a low quality slot but it has clear flowing water. So there’s that.
We get to a point we could have scrambled in from the top (It would have been much easier) but it got far too steep for us the reach the mysterious white walls a few hundred metres up the escarpment.
We retreat back and try the right branch. It was shit
We trudge back down and check out all the side creeks along the way. Some had canyons like sections but after the quality slot canyons of yesterday they were a major disappointment.
Back down past the Spur exit and I don’t know if it was the different light or just we were paying more attention but we had to admit the bottom was nicer than we originally gave it credit for.
Like, if you had never been in a proper slot canyon before you’d be impressed
If you are going to do Carnarvon gorge try a cooler month and hope for a good bit of rain in the days before you get here.
Finally out of what my mind I will always call Bloody Boowinda Gorge we paused for a bite to eat. All the trudging over loose river stones had zapped our energy.
It would have been easy just to return to camp but it was barely 4:30pm and there was another long gully about a kilometre down stream that had a name (At least on one map we had stumbled across) so we couldn’t help ourselves and went for a look.
The gully was scrubby and hard going but it keep promising to canyon up just up ahead. So we pressed on.
We trudged on until we started to loose light and so left this intriguing chasm to its secrets and made our way back to camp.
Continued from Central Queensland Adventure Day 1 part 2
Ever since my episode of heat stroke/ dehydration a few years ago I struggle a bit in the heat and yesterday was hot.
We plan a lazy start for day 2 and then some exploring.
There’s a waterfall marked on the map, googling before we came showed some photos of a fairly shit looking waterfall but with the other side creeks being so dry we though we might as well check it out.
We boulder hop and scrub bash up stream.
Canyon 6
The mouth of the side stream is bone dry, it’s not looking promising but we head up. A cool breeze comes down,then we round a corner and…
If it had a couple of inches of water running down it would be a match for the section in Claustral between the Hulks Fist and Thunder canyon.
I wanted to call it Betty. Kylie wanted to call it Jon. Which is ridiculous. Everyone knows the correct response to calling it Betty is to call it Al.
You mean Al, says I
Jon, says Gadget.
What ever
The map showed this creek cuts its way up high up the escarpment but so far a few easy scrambles were all we needed to make our way up.
1 thing I learnt this day though was the location of the creeks on the topo were accurate. The contour lines in the gullies however, were a guess at best and complete fantasy for the most.
We made our way up a kilometre or 2 of slot canyon before getting blocked by a large chockstone. No shitty waterfall to be seen.
We could not believe several blogs had photos of the waterfall but we had found no hint of this anywhere. I guess bushwalkers use a pass up beside the canyon to access the falls and maybe as another pass up to the great walk.
We head back to the gorge and onto the next.
Canyon 7
Further up stream our next target didn’t look like much. A scrub bash into a wide gully. Then a gap in a side wall gave a hint of something.
I almost didn’t bother but I’m going to duck up here for a look, says I.
I’ll come too, says Gadget.
It’s a shallow canyon but it won’t go far. It’s running parallel to the main gorge cutting back downstream but going up…
It took a couple of sketchy climbs but we made it up to where it begins to open out and then retraced our steps to once more bash up the gorge
Canyon 8
The next canyon started with promise
There’s some promising looking lines on the map further up the gorge but it’s getting late and we are fairly cooked from all the boulder hoping. We decide to head back down to camp.
But along the way there was 1 gully we had skipped, originally planing to do it tomorrow. But we were here now so pop in for a look.
Canyon 9
The map showed this as one of the longer ones on this side of the gorge upstream of the big bend camp but as tired as we were from all the boulder hoping in the heat of the gorge we were keen to see how far up we could push it.
More dodgy scrambles/climbs were needed. We took a bit 3mm amsteel rope as a hand line to assist getting back down.
Finally we couldn’t get any further up so made our way back to camp content with a big day in the heat.
Continued from day 1 part 1
We make our way back to the camp ground and park in the over night car park.
Our plan now was to hike up to the remote camp ground at the Big Bend , a bit over 9km up the gorge.
Along the way we’d do the side trips to the touristy stuff.
It was already 35°. We stock up on water.
Canyon 4
The Ampetheter.
Is it a canyon? I don’t know
Is it touristy as all hell? I don’t care.
I was pretty keen to see this one. It’s just off the main track.
Back on the main trail we head up stream.
The next thing on the tourist map is Wards Canyon. Just before it is a break in the cliffline and a small stream, the first we’ve seen with clear water.
And if you are good at spotting trails you may spot a vague track leading up beside.
We dump the packs and go for a stickybeak.
The soil is the finest white sand I’ve ever seen. Almost as fine and white as the cliffs towering above.
The trail continues up but it’s a wide gully. I guess it’s used as a sneaky short cut up or off the great walk or sumfink, we head back to the trail
Canyon 5
Wards Canyon.
Wards canyon looks like the most adventurous canyon in the lower gorge. However you can only access the very lower bit. I think tour company’s might run trips through it so it might be worth applying for a permit
It’s pretty and hosts the only known non-coastal population of King Ferns, Angiopteris evecta, in Queensland.
The Art Gallery
I couldn’t find the indigenous name for the art cave which is a shame. It looks like it was painted yesterday but archeological studies found evidence it’s been in use for at least 3500 years, sites just over the hill date to 19,000 years.
And on we go.
Pitjara Cave
It has another name on the tourist map but this is the name on the old topo. The art is top notch.
And finally we make it all the way up to the camp and stumble into one of the only semi secluded spots at the camp. Winning!
We haven’t done a huge amount of Ks, probably only 15 or 16 but it’s bloody hot so the myriad of No Swimming signs at such a beautiful hole were a little soul crushing.
So we set camp and relax in the shade
27-09-2023
Gadget and meeeeeeee
Gather around friends, adventure family, misfits and, vagabonds I’ve got a story to tell.
Or sumfink
30 odd years ago when Jameison published the first edition of Canyons Near Sydney he included a short section at the back for other canyon areas with a short paragraph on Carnarvon Gorge saying it had sandstone slot canyons similar to the Blue Mountains.
The only description was try starting at the homestead, make your way up the gorge and look for a routes up.
My curiosity was pipped and it got filed in the back of my brain.
Since that time it’s become a tourist mecca with a wilderness lodge going in around 1996 and National parks developing a good trail network. But I had a feeling there’d still be some hidden gems.
So when the stars aligned and Gadget and myself found ourselves with a week off I said fugg it, let’s go.
Of course abseiling is frowned upon in QLD national parks. There are permits but from all accounts these are about as hard to obtain as diamond impregnated rocking horse shit.
So our plan would be to just have a look. Scramble up from the bottoms or down from the tops as far as possible then retreat.
Day 1 though would be the touristy stuff. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
We rock into the NP camp ground late Thursday night. Not realising the nondescript pop up gazebo was the visitor check in we cruise past and pull into a random camp site to get our bearings.
Hey Kylie, what number site is on our booking ? says I
9, says she
You’d never guess what number we had pulled into at random.
Ok, most of you guessed 9. But Shit yeah! good start to the trip.
Our first target was back up the road a bit, Micky Creek Canyon.
Micky Creek is on all the maps, tourist brochures and instagram posts but 1 person I spoke to said the side creek next to it was betterer.
Canyon 1
Weirdly Warrumbah creek is sign posted and has a tourist trail that leads to the mouth of the canyon but there was zero info on it.
The start was impressive but it was dry as a dead dingo’s donger.
The further we scrambled up the better it got. We met a guy who said he had visited in June and it had been flowing.
Note: to self September is a shit time to visit. Hot as hell and dry. you could see the moss drying on the walls, with a bit of water the colours would pop.
About a kilometre on we come to a long section of stinky pea soup looking water. We thought about trying to bridge over it but the walls were slimey and it’s our first canyon on our first day and it already exceeded expectations so we headed back down.
Canyon 2
Micky Creek right branch.
Once again the tourist trail takes us to the mouth of Micky Creek canyon. It ends while the creek is still a wide gorge but soon after there’s a junction and we head up the right branch.
Eventually we got to a scramble that,while confident I could get up, I wasn’t overly keen on getting back down the slippery stone without a hand line. so once again we decided to turn back down.
Canyon 3
Micky creek left branch had a short section of canyon just upstream of the junction. This seemed to be the source of all the brochure and instagram photos. It was pretty but short. We continued up and it was narrowing but it wasn’t long before we were stopped by another scramble ropes would be handy for.
sleepwhenwearedead 