Our weekend plans had fallen through so we thought we’d go in search of some waterfalls neither of us had been to before.
Kylie suggested a spot and during research got a tip off that the fire trail out to them had recently been gated.
So we put the mountain bikes in to help eat up the kilometres.
Not only are the swimming holes spectacular this could now be my favourite fire trail ride (Did I just say that? what have I become?) I have a feeling the guy who did the road work is a mountain biker. Each waterbar seemed to be a perfectly shaped step down. Even though recovering from a shoulder injury meant I couldn’t take to the air it was still a blast.
Anyhoo, that’s not what we are here for.
20min later we are stashing the bikes in the bush and heading down a steep trail cutting through subtropical rainforest quiet different from anything you usually see in the upper mountains..
This brings us to a pleasant creek and we head downstream.
We have some lunch and a splash then make our way out.
The Haul up the hill is steep but interesting enough that I wasn’t in a world of suffering. And while I thought the ride back to the car might be tough it was just as much fun as it was coming in, with some pinches to keep you honest.
On the way back we spy some interesting mushrooms.
So of course we had to head back in the dark to see if they still had a shine.
It was faint, barely able to be made out with naked eye but some long exposures brought up their beauty.
Click to enbiggen
Ghost Mushrooms produce bioluminescence for around 22hrs a day. And for 14 of those hours you would think they are just another mushroom. People are like ghost mushrooms, if you can’t see their glow you are looking at them in the wrong light: C Flynn
The south coast of NSW is one of Kylie’s favourite places and I can easily see why. The colours of the dramatic coast line are mesmerising, the escarpments are grand and as a bonus the mountain biking is truly awesome.
With a bit of leave over Christmas I thought I’d be mad not to join her on a road trip.
One of our goals would be to squeeze in this popular multiday walk.
The Light to Light stretches between Boyds Tower and the Green Cape Light house in Beowa National Park, south of Eden. Being about 30km it’s doable in a day but most people do it over 3 days, making use of the offical camps sites at Saltwater Creek and Bittangabee bay (these are drive in campsites with showers and toilets so bookings are essential in peek times.)
We wanted to enjoy the beaches and scenery so decided to do it as a 2 day trip. As we had the mountain bikes we opted to forgo the pick up and drop off logistics (You can pay for a shuttle service at approx $120 per person) and made use of the bikes for the return journey.
Boyds Tower appears to be the usual start to the walk but looking at the topography of the forestry roads we figured it might be an easier ride North to South so we stashed the bikes in the bush near Boyds Tower and drove down to Green Cape to start the walk from there.
Along the way we did a side trip into Saltwater Camp to stash some extra water.
Part 1: Green Cape Light house to Bittangabee Bay
Full of beans and anticipation we set off at the crack of 10am in high spirits. It is a stunning bit of coast down here which is why I’m a bit baffled as to why this section of trail stubbornly avoids it.
TBH, this was my least favourite section of the walk. We could hear the ocean, we could occasionally see the ocean but without large side trips we couldn’t see the coast line.
We wander through tunnels of mallee scrub and across open plateau, it’s like the trail is trying to avoid any elevation loss or gain for the sake of it and at one stage I find myself thinking, I hope I haven’t driven 5hrs for 30km of this shit.
Gadget with the Light house off in the distance
Coming from the other way I can’t help but think this would be a disappointing end to the walk and you’d only be doing it for the sake of doing it and getting to the Light House.
NPs are doing a lot of upgrade work on the trail so perhaps this is a temporary diversion but it doesn’t look temporary.
Luckily the plethora of goannas and bird life were a distraction from the flat boring trudge.
Lyrebird scratching aboutlace monitor, Varanus variuscute little water holelace monitor, Varanus variuslace monitor, Varanus varius
8kms in Bittangabee bay was a welcome site.
Part 2: Bittangabee bay to Hegarty’s bay
NP were doing upgrade works to the trail around the headland so we were diverted in through the camp. It was packed. A sign near the toilet block directed us back on to the trail on the other side but, confusingly a few hundred meters along we came to a barricade and signage preventing people from accessing that section from the other direction.
Anyhoo, We make the short side trip down to the surprisingly people-less bay for a swim and a bit of lunch. We also got lucky as the grey clouds dispersed and the sun brought the colours out. Even if you are not doing the walk or camping for the night a visit to Bittangabee Bay is well worth it if you are down this way.
From here the trail does a wide arc around Bittangabee with view after view of the stunning bay.
Beautiful from any angle.
We are now following the coast line with just the occasional diversion inland.
This is what we were here for
Looking back down the coast with the light house in the distance
Looking up the coast with stunning cliff lines jutting out over the South Pacific OceanAnd stunning geology with folds and intrusions and flows and stuff
And giant goannas decorated in moss
Did I mention the colours?
If Bittangabee bay was stunning, and it was, Hegartys bay is beyond words
Once a publicised walk in camp it’s now officially closed for camping. Again NPs were doing work on the trail here, this time though we are diverted down on to the rockshelf. This was one of my favourite parts of the walk and it seems nuts they would divert the walk around some of it.
Oh, did I mention the colours?
secret waterhole just big enough for 1
Part 3: Hegartys bay to Saltwater Creek
Leaving Hegartys the trail swings back onto the plateau, but at least there are views of the coast
Even the bobcat driver got bored and tried to add little sweepy turns.. (actually well designed trail with water run off controlled by small grade reversals at each bend.)
Jacky Dragon (?)
And we stroll into Saltwater creek around 4pm. Again despite the drive in camp being packed the beach was all but empty.
Kylie was getting blisters on her toes so we stop to tape them up while we refill our water bottles.
TBH we’d overestimated how much water we would need. Not knowing if it was going to be baking hot or how much the salt water spray would take out of us we’d packed 3 litres each. I have well over half left when we got to the drop.
We recalculate how much we’d need for the rest of the walk and push on.
Part 4: Saltwater creek to Mowarry beach.
This may explain why so few people were in the water.
follow the yellow brick road… or sumfink
Once again we follow gorgeous coastline where the colours seem too vivid to be real
We come to an open grass headland and assume it’s the Mowarry campground. the kangaroos had it to themselves though.
And continue down to the beach, which the kangaroos also had to themselves.
We are surprised to find a camp spot right next to the beach so take advantage of it.
With some little side trips for swims and views we’d done about 28 or 29km today. For some weird reason flatter walks knock me around more than our usual scampering up and down canyons so I was feeling it. Kylie has sprained her ankle the week before and was suffering a head cold so was just as happy as me to have one more swim to wash off the grime of the day and set up camp.
Unbeknownst to us the offical camp spot is up above the beach on the next headland. A tribe of partiers descended in the middle of the night for a mini bush doof which was hilarious but a spattering of rain had them running for their beds not too late into the night.
Part 5: Mowarry beach to Boyds Tower.
With just 7 or 8km of walking left we could have had a lazy morning but we were also keen to get the 30km ride back to the cars knocked over before the day got too hot so we were up early for a brekkie with a view then hit the trail
Up over the headland it was a short walk to leatherjacket bay. Leatherjacket bay must be the easiest to reach drive in secluded spot. It was littered with fast food rubbish and toilet paper. Why people would do that to such a beautiful spot is beyond me.
And up the next rise we catch our first glimpse of Boyds Tower
But the walk wasn’t done yet.
and there you have it. Boyds Tower.
Boyds Tower is an unfinished light house created by Ben Boyd. a character once respected for his early settlement down here but recently being cancelled due to him being one of Australia’s most infamous “Blackbirders”
Blackbirders imported cheap labour. Boyd had “recruited” labour from various pacific islands and shipped them to Australia. By the time he got them to Australia though the union movement, religious groups and city based politicians saw it for what it was, low key slavery, and basically outlawed the practice.
Those already at work on Boyds lands down tools and demanded to be sent home.
Find your own way home said Boyd. Many of those brought out found themselves stranded in Sydney with no way to get home…..
All that said his biographer claims he was considerably less racist and cruel than many of the politicians who had publicly condemned him.
Anyhoo, We reach the tower and the end of our walk. We woof down some food, swap backpacks for bikes and ride through the centre of the park, down Duckhole road back to the car.
It’s 30km on what my mate Bernard would refer to “gently undulating” dirt roads. At times the bull dust is so soft it feel’s like you are riding with flat tyres and there’s a few pinches to make sure the legs are still burning but it’s not a bad ride.
Kylie’s fairly new to mountain biking and injury has kept her off the bike for a bit so when we reach the junction with Green Cape light house road I offer to forge ahead and bring the car back to pick her up where ever she gets to.
There’s some fun and fast down hill sections here but also a couple of steepish pinches. It’s the stiff ocean breeze smacking you in the face in the last 2km that hurts the legs the most though.
I get to the car, quickly get changed and drive back up the road, Kylie’s not that far behind. It’s only a couple of kilometres to the end, isn’t it. asks she
Yep, says I. You want to finish it off don’t you?
She grins and pedals on…
All up 36+Km of walking and 30Km ride in 2 days. Not a bad effort.
Our review.
The Grade:
National Parks grade the walk a 4. “Grade 4: Bushwalking experience recommended. Tracks may be long, rough and very steep. Directional signage may be limited.”
Other than the length and a few short sections where you need to pick your way along the beach or over rocky outcrops I’m not sure how it’s 4. it’s fairly flat. I guess the recent upgrades have included adding stairs to any of the steeper sections so maybe before the upgrades….
Would I recommend it?
Sure. it’s definitely worth doing. The views are amazeballs
If your idea of bushwalking is well maintained and sign posted touristy type trails and you want to try something a bit longer or want to try your first overnight walk with the advantage of maintained camp sites this would be perfect.
Would I do it again?
TBH. I wouldn’t bother with the bit between Bittangabee bay and Green Cape Lighthouse again unless I was adding more time and doing side trips out to things like Pulpit rock and checking out the little bays.
And thus we find ourselves navigating our way around the chemical weapons clean up and start walking out the fire break along Waratah ridge amid banter and laughing.
And before too long we are suiting up and entering the canyon
It’s quiet nice.
I always forget just how spectacular the top section is
And I also forget the length of the walk betwix it and the bottom section …
Aimee entering the bottom section. The log has moved so now it’s a much easier start. That log had been there as long as I can remember. It’s now further down the chamber. Testament to the power of the recent floods
Wrong time of year for a massive glowworm display but still… glowworms! and if I’m ever not awed by glowworms slap me hard
The cave has silted up again meaning it’s a walk through to the squeeze out again.
It’s pretty choked up. Says Russ. I’m not sure we’ll get through.
Ah, that old chestnut.
Wait. I can see a bit of light. and up he squeezes.
I’m not sure of the sense of leaving the fat guy until last but Aimee follows him and I push my pack through to her and think skinny thoughts as I wiggle my self up and out
Then the hole abseil is awkward and holey again
Hole in the Wall, the sun really does shines out it’s arse
I don’t want to get into the whole bolt debate but for me the problem solving aspect has alway been a big part of the appeal of Blue Mountains canyoning. So needing to think about and improvise anchors was a pleasant change to what has become the norm in the more popular “trade routes”
And far too soon we are swimming up the Bungleboori North branch/*hackspit* Dingo creek.
Excuse me, I’ve been trying to reach you about your cars extended warranty…..
Laurence, Chris, Tal, Della, Gabby, Ev, Matt, Adrian and meee
The bushfires that raged across much of Australia threw a spanner in the work of a family holiday to the south coast so some last minute phone calls were made to me old mate Della who generously offered us a couple of beds on the central coast, I threw the ropes in just in case
Laurence had been promoting some abseil trips to sea caves that looked quite alright and while under normal circumstances I probably wouldn’t have driven up just to visit them while I was in the area I thought why not drag Tal out of a mini adventure.
A quick message to Laurence to get some info and tips and he offered to meet us there and show us around.
Hey Dell, can you get Thursday off work?
It’d been about 20years since he’d done any abseiling but he was keen. A few other invites were sent out and before we knew it we had met up with the above mentioned folk and were setting up ropes above our first cave. The Nudie cave
We set ropes, and exit ladder and Matt even jumps in at the exit to test the water, then after a few quick tips and reminders me and Dell get on rope and drop on in
Dropping off the end of the rope we swim into the cave and wait for the others
Inside was surprisingly large and the pebbly beach gave an awesome underfoot massage
Gabby and Ev dropping in to join us
As he was finding his feet on the beach the only wave we saw all week swept up to smash Adrian face first into the pebbles. We shouldn’t have laughed… but we did
And then we swim out and make use of Laurences cave ladder to climb out of the water
Exiting without placing a ladder first would be difficult at best
Be a cool jump. Say I. Looking back up to the arch
Oh Coop jumps from that platform there, Says Laurence
I don’t take much convincing. Nor does Della
And then we make our way around to the next one, Pinney Cave. This is just a dunk in the ocean with a bit of a scramble out. By all reports the scramble out is much harder in normal conditions and out right dangerous if the swell is much over a foot. We must have got very lucky with not much swell at all as I found it much easier
But with Laurence’s warning only myself, Matt and Della decided to give it a crack, with Gabby and Ev opting for a dry landing on the exit route and the rest waiting for us up top.
Caution: You need low tide and a swell of under 2 feet to run this trip the way we did it. Also the rock is sharp as a finely honed cutty thing so rope protectors and good start technique are a must.
Adventure pushes your limits and lifts your soul or sumfink
Little Miss Sunshine, The Russian Gangster, The Dare Devil, Badass Barbie, Archie, White Water Wizard and Meeeeeee (the eeejiot)
When Kylie said her crew were keen on a trip to this area and invited me along I jumped at the chance and then pretty much rearranged the trip… But they were cool with it.
Anyhoo
There has been a lot of good discussion on the Australian Canyoners group about rigging releasable contingency anchors and with Mark’s guidance we took the opportunity to practice setting up with a figure 8 block. A method I’ve not used before but one I’ll make use of in the future.
I’ve always like the idea of releasable anchors and have used munter-mule knots in the past but found them too much of a pain in the arse to bother with on most recreational trips, however there are a bunch of devices out now that take the hassle out of the equation. And for those not into buying more gear (weirdos) most people would have a spare figure 8 in the gear bag somewhere. I was surprised at how simple and quick the figure 8 block was to rig.
But I get ahead of myself.
It’s -4 when Little Miss Sunshine arrives at my place, minus the sunshine, and we head off to meet Mark and the others. I know the others only from online interactions so it’s cool to finally meet them in person.
After a gentle stroll up the hill, wait. No, that’s not right. After slogging up the hill we dump bags and set off for a side trip to our first canyon of the day, slipping up the usual pass and short cutting through the scrub to the top of the slot
Badass Barbie, AKA Aimee, dropping into Crooked Crevice with Kylie on belay down below
Badass Barbie, Little Miss Sunshine, The Dare Devil and the Russian Gangster contemplating the squeeze abseil off a classically ridiculous Blue Mts anchor consisting of a sling hero looped around a nub of rock.
Archie, AKA #adventure_matt squeezing on down. Someone may or may not have got a little wedged in here. and before you lot point your fingers at me guts are apparently more conforming than other parts of anatomy. “I’m stuck by my lady lumps.” I believe was the call.
It’s a great little slot
An hour or so later we are back at the bags and make our way around to visit the next slot/micro canyon
Kenobi
It’s short but the light is always impressive
It was bad enough they were twinning…. 🙂
And then it is up my pass and onto the tops for some views followed by more scrub
Kylie checking out the views up the Wolgan towards Donkey Mountain
The water is lava and not even the Dare Devil, AKA, Hywaida, wants to get burnt
The hole we just emerged from
The second last abseil see us descend out of the hidden slot into the open
1 abseil to go and as I was pulling rope across for Mark to feed it through the anchor there was an almighty rumble, the world shook and a car sized boulder broke off the cliff above and went sailing past about 10m to the right of us….. It was impressive to witness but scary AF when it happened
Mark racing down the final abseil
Little Miss Sunshine, AKA Kylie aka #wild_elly, high above the Wolgan
Aimee
Matt
Hywaida
And then its a combination of walking, stumbling and dirt skiing back down to the cars
Another great day in the bush with great people visiting 3 short but very different canyons
Party Size: 7
Time: 7hr 15 car to car
There’s no excuse to be bored. Sad, yes. Angry, yes. Depressed, yes. Crazy, yes. But there’s no excuse for boredom. Ever!: Viggo Mortensen
With the weather turning cold it’s time to focus on dry trips. Depite popular opinion there are a number of dry(ish) canyons not to far from the usual summer trips that are worth a look. This one is a short day in the Wolgan.
The canyon itself isn’t that great in regards to length and depth of the constriction but it has a couple of standout features and great views.
We met at the servo bright and early and sorted car pools to drive down to the car park. Mick was joining us for the haul up through the cliff lines but then leaving as he had afternoon plans in the bigsmoke
Madie was running 5min late but, hey she had a 4hr drive to get here so no one blamed her. Oh, in a previous blog I stated she needed a constant supply of chips and chocolate. that was just a bit of fun after she brought a large pack of chips on the trip I didn’t mean it to sound like she was a snack scoffing fatty. She usually eats nothing but kale washed down with a cup of steam, or sumfink. I’m the fat guy on our trips.
Anyhoo.
The frost was lifting off the tops and down in the valley it was a glorious morning so we wasted little time in setting out up the hill.
Our path up is typically steep but relatively easy for the Wolgan.
Some Pretty section of creek and grand overhangs break up the climb
and soon we are bathing in sunshine on top of the stunning clifflines that seem so impenetrable from the valley below.
Chris stretches out in the warm sunshine
Nice spot of a morning tea break
This is where Mick leaves us and heads back the way we came up. For the rest of us it’s a relatively easy stroll up through the scrub to intersect a faint trail along the ridge.
There is a pleasant bit along the ridge before we drop back down through the scrub to our first anchor point above a 30m abseil down through one of the highlights
Over the millenia water running down a sloping face have carved a deep groove into the rock befre hitting a band of iron stone that created a small pool halfway up the cliff line. Evenually this pool eroded deeper and deeper until it bored a hole staright through the cliff
The light in this section is just magical but hard to capture with a little point and click camera
At the bottom is usually a deep plunge pool that takes some manoeuvring to get across without falling in. Today it was nearly dry but I made them do the bridge anyway 🙂
Madie demonstraighting the technique
Autal emerging from the hole
The hole opens into a chamber with an amzing window out over the Wolgan
I have to say after our scrub bash to nowhere I was fairly surprised the others would still be keen on coming out, let alone head back with the same goal in mind. Something about unfinished business. The more we looked over maps the more convinced we were right there, just misinterpreted the trail notes.
With a whole range of schedules and commitments finding a date where every one was available was the tricky part.
The date was set and eagerness grew. Then Illness struck. Ed rang saying he was crook as a dog. I called Gaz saying I was reluctant to do the trip without Ed as it was his idea in the first place. I was just heading to the chemist to drug myself up, Says he, as I’m the same… Trip off.
It was going to be w while before everyone would be available again.
Then I got the opportunity to do the trip with others who had been there previously and a mid week reconnaissance mission took place. It had me more eager than ever to get the crew back there.
Another date was set.
Another set of circumstance meant not everyone could make it.
Postponed again
Finally 12months later every one was getting keen again. Ed suggested the June long weekend. We had a big MTB race on at Rydal which ruled out Saturday and Sunday. I needed to go to work Monday morning but arranged to go early so I could meet the others around 9.
I threw out an invite to Julie just in case she had a day off and luckily she did so it would be a party of 6.
Well Friday and Saturday pissed down. Like constant drizzle interspaced with good heavy rain. Sunday dried out just enough that the race at Rydal was on perfectly tacky trails but I warned the others that while usually dry above the knees with this rain we might get wet up to our waists… A slight under estimation.
Anyway we met up and made our way down into the Wolgan. A good fog rolled through the valley with the promise of clear blue sky once it lifted.
We made good time up the hill and through an easy break in the cliff lines. Much easier than the first way I lead them 12 months ago.
Julie leads Ethan up through a convenient pass
Another magical vantage point on the Wolgan cliff lines
Julie guided the way and we surprised ourselves by arriving bang on target at the lunch spot above the abseil anchor with surprisingly little scrub to be bashed at all.
We need to squeeze down through that hole
Usually dry it was nice to see water flowing down here, though it was a tad chilly. The hole opens out into a nice circular window
As far as constrictions go it’s a fairly blah. But the abseil features make it worth it
The start of the only real canyon section. I’m told last week this was ankle deep. Last year when I came through with Julie and the Cooks it was about nut deep. It looks a bit deeper today….. Chest deep for me. So much for not getting to wet today. Lucky it was a bluebird day
While some tried in vain in the end there was no option but to wade on through, except after we all had, Ed pointed out a high ledge we could have scampered across with a convenient abseil tree almost directly above the end of the pool.
And next is a fun little abseil down through a hole in the rock. It’s almost like a mini Alcatraz but darker and narrower
Gaz descending into the Hole
Julie offering Jodie some tips as she bridges across a deep plunge pool within a Hole in the Rock
Ed emerging from the Hole in the Rock. The Creek drops down a tunnel behind the rock face
next up is 2 awesomely exposed 30m abseils above the spectacular Wolgan valley
The slot in the cliff line opens up with some grand views
Julie leading the last abseil, a fun jaunt down a big slab with stunning views.
Our track notes said 2 ropes needed here but both center marks were on the ground so conceivably its doable on 1 genuine 60m (Note mine is about 63m and the center mark was just off the ground.
Looking down the slab from the top of the last drop. You may be able to make out the gang at the bottom.
Our slot is not obvious from below, pretty much center of the shot.
sleepwhenwearedead 